A tasting of Volnay at Bouchard Pere et Fils was one of a string of memorable events on a recent visit to Burgundy. In the Chateau de Beaune, winemaker Philippe Prost guided guests from all over the world through what the Australians call a "vertizontal" - various wines from a single vintage (1998), plus various vintages of the same wine. It was fascinating to taste the marked differences of terroir between four Volnay Premiers Crus, and rewarding to discover how beautifully Bouchard Pere et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Curvee Carnot - the one we see in Ireland - develops over time. The 1964 was a stupendous wine, with rich, smoky complexity; the 1978 marked by seductive fruit and silky elegance. You'll find the 1997 - an already delicious vintage for earlier drinking - on sale here at around £28. But keep an eye out for the 1995, which Findlaters have sensibly decided to hold back for a bit longer. Still, like a coiled spring, it's one that will open out slowly - and probably still deliver intense pleasure in 20 or 30 years' time.