If you're opting for the real thing, remember this. You're buying more than just a fizzy wine from a chalky patch of France. Champagne is all bound up with memories - past ones maybe; future ones for sure, as we stand at this thousand-year water
shed. Champagne Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label NV (very widely available, about £27) is a brilliant choice - because (a) it has real class, (b) there's still plenty of it and (c) that dayglo-orange livery The Widow Clicquot dreamt up 125 years ago will burn itself into the minds of your family and friends for ever.
Now for the budget alternative. No half measures - by which I mean, no very cheap, bitter-sweet champagne. Instead, discover Deutz Marlborough Cuvee Brut NV, Montana (Oddbins, £13.99) - a deliciously zesty, elegant New World sparkler.