`Still a good old friend," I've written at the bottom of my tasting notes for Chateau de Lamarque, Haut Medoc, Cru Bourgeois, 1995 (Mitchells, Kildare Street and Glasthule, £14.95) - for this is a wine I've enjoyed for years. There's something quite sensual about it - not something that can always be said of Bordeaux. And while the 1995 has all the soft, ripe fruit of that sunny vintage, it also has classic cedar, spice and vegetal notes, with just the right amount of grip to help the finish hold its interest. The other admirable thing is that, while so many Bordeaux prices have gone bananas, Lamarque's has edged up only a little. Just perfect for the Easter lamb.