IT's no surprise that Salento in Puglia should deliver the week's most delectable wines, since this region, above all, has begun to make international news. It is surprising, though, that the Notarpanaro 1988 from Taurino (outlets above, typically £8.99) a modest, hot climate wine, already eight years old should taste quite as splendid as it does, with a lovely, velvety feel in the mouth and all sorts of interesting flavours to draw you back to the glass. One to lay in for Christmas and enjoy right away.