DEREK EVANSdidn't know what to expect from his first proper visit to Northern Ireland for 25 years. He needn't have worried: he enjoyed every minute at Belle Isle Castle
WE ARE A LITTLE sceptical about our trip to Northern Ireland. It is 25 years since our last proper visit, after all.
As we approach the Border the desolation of once bustling towns becomes glaringly obvious. We stop in one for coffee. No such luck. All its cafes and restaurants are closed. We count seven boarded-up premises side by side on the main street.
Northern Ireland presents a different picture. Take Enniskillen on a Saturday afternoon. It’s packed with shoppers, its restaurants are full to the brim and there’s a general air of friendliness about the place. The 24-hour Asda supermarket across the Erne footbridge was reportedly the company’s busiest last Christmas, with the volume of shoppers forcing it to close its doors at 10.30am on at least one occasion. The only visible downturn in the North from our perspective are the empty British army barracks, with their wire cages and hilltop lookouts.
When we arrive at Belle Isle Castle, just outside town, we are greeted by Charles and Fiona Plunket. “I’ll show you to your lodge, and then join us at the castle for refreshments and a chat,” says Charles. Over salmon and stiff drinks we learn a great deal about this majestic house. Nestling close to Upper Lough Erne, and set in a landscape of lakes and rolling hills, Belle Isle is one of Northern Ireland’s hidden gems.
The 190-hectare estate, which is still working farmland, is steeped in history. In the 11th century the island was inhabited by the MacManus and Maguire families – Cathal Óg Mac Maghnusa helped compile the Annals of Ulster. The 500th anniversary of his death, in 1498, is commemorated by a memorial on the avenue. To celebrate the occasion a gathering of the MacManus clan was held at Belle Isle in 1998.
Following the Flight of the Earls, in 1607, the estate had several eminent owners, including the Gore family, who built the first house and created a magnificent walled garden. In 1830 the land was sold to the Porters for £68,000.
Further improvements followed, including the addition of a tower and gallery to the house. The coach house and farmyard were built in 1856. The last member of the Porter family, Lavinia Baird, sold Belle Isle to the duke of Abercorn in 1991.
Today the estate prides itself on its cookery school, which is in its 16th season. We join Naseem Booth, who will be our chef and tutor on a one-day course. Our group of 10 listen intently as Booth prepares a mouth-watering salad. Two medium-ripe mangoes, two ripe avocados and two smoked chicken breasts, all sliced lengthways, are combined with baby salad leaves and roasted pine nuts, then seasoned well. Verdict: absolutely delicious.
We meet Geraldine and seven friends from Sligo. “Instead of our girlie night out, this year we decided to try the cookery school instead. We’re delighted with the choice,” she says.
For Alan and William from White Abbey, in Co Antrim, the occasion is a Christmas present. “Our wives opted for a shopping spree in Enniskillen,” quips William.
Dogs play an important part at Belle Isle, as shown by the doggie graveyard, dating back to the 19th century, in the grounds.
We are amused by a notice that reads: “The resident black Labrador is called Finnegan and is very friendly but getting rather old and almost deaf. The brown terrier is called Rodney. If he does come in to your house – throw him out.
“A black Labrador has joined the team. Born in 2007, he is called Murphy and a grand nephew of Finnegan. Please do not feed him and do not allow him into your house, as he is a terrible thief.”
Belle Isle is famous for coarse fishing. Situated at the northern end of Upper Lough Erne, it produces some top weights of bream, roach and perch. Last October the roach catch over four days exceeded 116kg. Pike numbers are also increasing; the biggest so far is 16kg, caught two years ago near Glen Cottage.
From Catchcart’s Lodge I stroll down to the bridge and west island for a stint of spinning for pike. Yippee! Second cast and a whopper of at least five kilos grabs my red-tailed copper spoon. The die is cast for me.
Where to stay
Belle Isle Estate. Lisbellaw, Co Fermanagh, 048-66387231. belleisle-estate.com. Magnificent 190-hectare estate surrounded by the Shannon- Erne Waterway. A coarse angler’s paradise with woodland walks and an award-winning cookery school. Four-star self-catering, from courtyard apartments to garden cottages, and an eight-bedroomed castle. Dogs are welcome.
Westville Hotel.
14-20 Tempo Road, Enniskillen, 048-66320333, westvillehotel.co.uk. New hotel in the heart of Enniskillen. Superb food served in elegant restaurant where you can see the kitchen staff at work. Try the turbot with white beans, asparagus, Parmesan crisp and chive veloute.
Where to go
The Buttermarket. Down Street, Enniskillen,fermanaghcraft.com. Sixteen art and craft units and a coffee shop housed in a restored 19th-century dairy market. Frankie McPhillips, one of Ireland’s finest fly dressers, runs a full-time fly-tying and fishing-tackle business upstairs.
Florence Court. Enniskillen, 048-66348249, nationaltrust.org.uk. Take a tour of this fine 18th-century country house and discover more about the 11 generations of the Cole family, earls of Enniskillen. The rose garden is a must-see; the court is home to the mother plant of the Irish yew.
Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark. Florencecourt, 048-66348855. marblearch cavesglobalgeopark.com. Fascinating 75-minute boat and walking tour to view enchanting stalactites, winding passages and cave decorations. The descent (and ascent) to the caves has 157 steps, with very welcome and strategically placed rest areas.
Belleek Pottery. 3 Main Street, Belleek, 048-68658501, belleek.ie. Home to the fine Parian china. Award-winning visitor centre open from 10am to 5.30pm. The 20-minute audio-visual screening in the cinema studio is spectacular. Check website for tour times.
Derek Evans was a guest of Belle Isle Estate School of Cookery