The region of Extremadura, bordering Portugal, is a gem with plenty of culture and history to complement its good fishing, writes Derek Evans
THE IDEA OF a Spanish holiday always seems to conjure up Alicante, Torremolinos, Santa Ponsa, Benidorm . . . The list is endless. Most have in common golden beaches, promenades, bars and restaurants, all enshrouded by apartment blocks and skyscraping hotels.
Of course it's the weather that mainly attracts holidaymakers to Spain. What could be more relaxing than lying by the pool sipping a beer in 30-degree sunshine? It's no wonder one and a half million Irish people visit Spain every year.
But wait: there is a lot more to the country than sea, sand and sangria. Extremadura is one of Spain's untouched gems. Situated in the west of the country, bordering Portugal, this landlocked region is sparsely populated, with only a million people in an area almost as large as Leinster and Connaught combined. But it has an immense cultural heritage and good-quality fishing, and its splendid roads make it possible to get around easily.
We are here to see what it offers in the way of carp fishing, so from Madrid airport we head straight for the town of Navalvillar de Pela, in the Extremaduran province of Badajoz.
We are introduced to head angling guide Craig Reid. With over seven years' experience of fishing Spanish waters, he brings a wealth of knowledge, particularly on carp fishing.
We take time out to meander through the nearby village of Puebla de Alcocer. With its narrow winding streets, Alcocer is one of the most important villages in the province, highlighted by the beautiful Mudejar-style parish church of Santiago and crowned at its highest point by the best-conserved castle in the area.
After a 5.30am wake-up call the next day we travel to the town of Talarrubias, to fish on Lake Orellana - a journey that requires four-wheel-drive jeeps for its final five kilometres, over heavy terrain.
Orellana is a dammed lake formed within the River Guadiana in 1961. Covering an area of 5,000 hectares, it holds carp to over 30kg, comizo barbel to 20kg; pike; black bass; tench to five kilograms and crucian carp.
There to meet us at the lakeside is Reid, who has been fishing through the night with two of our group. Bivouacs and camp beds are much in evidence as the trio appear bleary-eyed but in high spirits, with nine carp to their credit, the heaviest reaching 12kg. Three more carp are landed before the midday sun brings an end to fishing.
Back on the road, this time to Alcántara, 300km away by the Portuguese border. We are staying at the fabulous Hospedería Conventual de Alcántara. In 1478 Saint Bartolomé of Oviedo laid the first stones of the convent. In 1912 a modern flour mill was installed; it remains on display in the hotel's museum.
A highlight of Alcántara is the magnificent San Benito Monastery, built by the Order of Alcántara on the site of an Arab fortification. Nearby is a second-century Roman bridge over the River Tagus with views of the majestic dam and reservoir.
We pay a fleeting early-morning visit to a local campsite, at Puente de Alcántara, to see what it can offer fishermen. It provides excellent stopovers for camper vans and tents, and it also has bungalows for up to six people. The restaurant, with a capacity for 180 people, has a great reputation. Staying on the site for a week costs an average of €40 per person.
Next we travel by boat down Alcántara Lake, formed by the River Tagus below an enormous dam. At more than 90km long, it is billed as one of Europe's greatest man-made lakes.
The area, which is of special conservation value, prides itself on its wild vultures and black storks. "If we are quiet we should see the birds perched on the rocks," says our guide, Marcus. How right he is: we catch a rare glimpse of a black stork.
A 100km dash brings us to Cáceres, a city founded by the Romans in 12 BC. It retains its ancient walls and 30 towers, of which Torre Del Bujaco is the most famous. Cáceres, which is competing to be European City of Culture in 2016, was declared a World Heritage city by Unesco in 1986 because of its blend of Roman, Islamic, Gothic and Italian Renaissance architecture.
On again to Trujillo, a beautiful city that is a step back in time. Its centrepiece, in Plaza Mayor, is an equestrian statute of Francisco Pizarro, a conquistador who defeated the Inca empire in the 16th century.
An outstanding feature of the city is a 10th-century castle built by Moorish armies on Roman foundations. It is set on the highest point of the city, known as Cabezo de Zorro, overlooking Trujillo and a large part of the region.
We go to bed early to catch up on sleep before a 4am start for fishing at Sierra Brava. Another dammed lake, formed in 1996 from the River Pizarroso, its many bays and underwater features make it a carp anglers' paradise.
Our trio of total carp anglers have opted to fish through the night again. As we quietly approach at 5am I can hear someone snoring in the distance. All of an hour passes before a bait buzzer sounds, waking all three.
The night shift encountered four carp runs, and each fish slipped the hook. I get my chance before sunup. I lift into the fish as it takes off at a blistering pace across the lake. The pressure is awesome as I begin to tighten the bait runner. Alas, after about two minutes the hook comes adrift and the fish is gone.
As we say our farewells to Extremadura my thoughts centre on a region that time has almost forgotten. It has preserved all this cultural and historical background for generations, and only now is it beginning to invite the outside world into its domain.
On the fishing front, our trip was designed to give us an insight into the fantastic carp fishing in the area. It certainly achieved this. We'll just have to come back to try our hand at fly-fishing for barbel, pike, black bass and trout.
Where to stay
Don Juan Hotel. Navalvillar de Pela, 00-34-924- 860606,www.donjuanhotel.com. A comfortable two-star hotel, refurbished in 1999 with swimming pool and jacuzzi. Close to Talarrubias, for fishing on Lake Orellana.
Hospedería Conventual de Alcántara. Carretera del Poblado Iberdrola s/n, Alcántara, 00-34-902- 321432, www.hospederias deextremadura.es. A four-star hotel in a former convent whose careful restoration has respected the spirit of the original building.
NH Palacio de Santa Marta. Ballesteros 6, Trujillo, 00-34-927-659190, www.nh-hotels.com. A four-star hotel in a cobblestone lane just 25m from Trujillo's main square. Ideal location for culture tours.
Where to eat
La Tahona. Calle Felipe Uribarri 4, Cáceres, 00-34-927- 224455,www.restaurante latahona.com. Traditional restaurant specialising in local cuisine. Friendly staff ensure a warm welcome in comfortable surroundings. Renowned for impressive wine list.
Parador. Calle Santa Beatriz de Silva, Trujillo, 00-34-927-321350, www.parador.es. A luxurious restaurant for a farewell dinner, in Trujillo's four-star parador, or state-owned historic hotel, a former convent with two cloisters. The restaurant serves tempting dishes such as tomato and cumin soup and, above all, cochinillo de montanera, or roast suckling pig.
When to go
There is no special season for fishing in Extremadura, but the best months are from October to March.
For more information, see www.spain.info.
Ryanair (www.ryanair. com), Aer Lingus (www. aerlingus.com) and Iberia (www.iberia.ie) all fly from Dublin to Madrid. Iberia also flies on to Badajoz.
For southern Extremadura, Ryanair has a seasonal service to Seville.