SARA KEATINGvisits Markree Castle
WHEN OUR plans for a sustainable rural retreat in a nearby eco-lodge went awry (eco-toilets only and no hot water are more pre-historic than eco-friendly) my partner-in-crime and I felt like we needed a bit of luxury, so when we came across a deal for two nights at Markree Castle, we thought it must be too good to be true. The sun came out just as we turned off the N4 at the Collooney roundabout, and as we drove through the formidable arched gate-lodge and snaked our way around the outskirts of the Cooper estate, it seemed that the gods were finally smiling.
Markree Castle is actually like staying in a castle more than a luxury hotel, although it offers the guest everything a five-star chain might (except a spa). The hotel will appeal to anyone with a sense of historical authenticity. The original structure was built in the 1640s, but much of what remains extant today dates from the early 1800s. The last aesthetic re-modelling (the stunning Louis XIV-style restaurant) was in 1896, so the experience is really one of stepping back in time.
With its grey, exterior tower walls dripping with ivy, Markree Castle oozes atmosphere. On approach it seethes with a thrilling, spooky ambience. Walking up the red-carpeted stone steps of the grand entrance hall, the smell of wood fires billowing at reception invites you towards a majestic oak staircase that seems to sweep up to the heavens. This is the sort of place that Halloween and Christmases are made for.
Our second-floor bedroom was a standard room, with a secret corner tower-room at the back, which would have made a nice dressing room or hiding place. An ugly oversheet on the comfy double-bed did the room no favours, but we rolled it up at the bottom of the wardrobe and the crisp white linen underneath brightened the room up nicely. The views of the formal gardens also helped. Despite the age of the building, the hotel is well insulated and warm, and the shower was nicely powerful.
Staff were extremely obliging and informative, once you could find them. They flitted from the kitchen to the reception rooms like ghosts. We could have helped ourselves to drinks most nights in the bar, but restrained ourselves and waited until someone appeared. We once considered contacting them by seance.
We ate in the hotel restaurant both nights, but found the standard rather inconsistent. On Sunday night we ate from the set menu as part of our special offer and it was probably one of the best meals I’ve ever had, with a huge range of choice: superb steaks, succulent duck, a stunning goat’s cheese tart and Movenpick ice-cream. The next night we ate a la carte and were extremely disappointed: small portions and bad value, although our meal did come with complimentary cocktail glasses filled with soup (ironically, the highlight of the meal). Breakfast was adequate (there were two choices: a full Irish and kippers), but a rather measly-looking buffet could do with some fresh fruit.
The extensive grounds of Markree provide ample opportunity for exploring the variety of Sligo’s verdant landscape, but we did venture back into civilization briefly to hike up Knockrea and visit Queen Maeve’s Tomb, which provides spectacular vistas up and down the west coast, from Ben Bulben in the north, to Strandhill and the idyllic Sligo lakes. But despite the many other attractions it wasn’t long before we were back at Markree, seeking out the secret servants’ passages, discovering the abandoned barns at the estate’s edge, and peeking inside the castle’s chapel.
And then it was back in to the quiet hotel bar for generous glasses of a fine house wine. The mahogany-walled bar, with its massive window, was my favourite room in the hotel. Overlooking a stream, it framed a horizon that seemed to stretch far into the wilderness, despite the proximity of the motorway. We will definitely be back at Christmas.
WhatThree-star castle.
Rooms30 guest rooms.
Best ratesMidweek special (Sunday to Thursday) 2 BB, one dinner, €120pps.
Restaurant and barKnockmuldowney Restaurant; Markree Bar.
Child-friendlinessFarm and forest walks within the grounds, possibly some ghosts, and loads of places to play hide and seek.
AccessOne wheelchair accessible bedroom.
AmenitiesWedding chapel, self-catering courtyard cottages, stables.