A learning journey

LA SOUQUETO, meaning little vine, stands tall and proud in a small impasse in the medieval village of Mirepeisset in the Aude, south of France. One of the many charms of this late 18th-century Maison de Maîtreis the vine that graces the imposing façade of the house. Typical of the style, its shuttered windows on four stories and large ornate iron hall-door are inviting and welcoming. However, nothing is a match for the big open smile of its owner Petra Carter, whose natural enthusiasm and passion for all things culinary and cultural shines through her welcoming eyes.

Carter moved to France in 2005, when Ireland’s Celtic Tiger was roaring and alive and well. Living in Ireland, she had built up a reputation as a food writer and editor, but the winds of change brought her to the Languedoc-Roussillon.

She had always been attracted to the Mediterranean way of life, with its respect for nature, family values, food and wine, community spirit and good weather. The region was also still affordable compared to other parts of France such as Provence. When she first saw the house, it was love at first sight as she observed the beams of light flooding through its many windows. She knew a large amount of restoration work was needed, but signed on the dotted line and became the proud owner of her dream home, located near the ancient Roman city of Narbonne. She was determined no time would be lost in restoring the house to its former glory so she could then concentrate on organising and running food, art and creative writing courses.

While her house in Dublin was being sold, Carter regularly commuted to France, getting to know her neighbours along the way. People such as 93-year-old Pastoret, an illiterate but wise and knowledgeable shepherd who lived “by the moon”; 82-year-old Marie, known for the naughty twinkle in her eye and ever-ready to share the gossip of the village; Dominique, the pretty épicière (literally the epicentre of the village), as well as the ageing bachelors who formed the welcoming committee on the benches in the square.

Eventually the time came for Carter to move permanently to France. Her budget was tight but she persevered with her plans to develop a specialised guest house for foodies and art lovers.

By law in France, houses for sale must be certified against lead content, termites and asbestos. At the time of signing for the house, she was not alarmed when it was pointed out that there was a small “trace” of termite presence.

To her utter dismay, during the heavy structural work the so-called trace of termites turned out to be an infestation and major damage had been caused to ceilings and floors. It led to endless frustration and a protracted court case. Carter says the darkest moment was a feeling of utter despondency as the builders smashed ceilings and dug up floors around her. During this trying time her neighbours were a source of inspiration and joy, often arriving with local herbs, vegetables and dishes.

Now almost six years on, and things have come full circle. Carter won the court case and gutted the house, while keeping its essential character. A roof terrace (there is no garden), large art studio and a couple of small bedrooms and bathrooms were installed on the top floor. The middle floors were designed as the main bedroom area, with three bathrooms. The basement was transformed into a large room that doubles as a demonstration kitchen and a dining room for guests. On the ground floor another kitchen and open- plan living space was created.

La Souqueto has been open for business for a year. Running food workshops, Carter’s approach is not to teach in a formal way but to share her love of food and cooking. It’s a style that allows recipes to be remembered, rather than relying on a supplied recipe folder. Her course on intuitive cooking is based on combining different complementary flavours. Think sweet and sour, or sweet and salty (a particular favourite). Her example of sweet and salty is not the obvious combination of, say, Charentais melon and Parma ham. Instead she uses the sweetness of peaches and the saltiness of feta cheese in a happy combination.

Participants come away with the confidence and ability to experiment with food. She considers cooking skills an important survival kit for the future, believing it will make people much less reliant on processed and take-away foods.

Her philosophy is that cooking doesn’t have to involve hours of following complicated recipes and her courses are aimed at people with busy lifestyles and with dishes that inspire fun and confidence. Her way of using particular flavour combinations means that most dishes can be quickly put together in advance of dinner parties.

The courses include winery visits, tutored wine tastings as well as visits to local cheese, olive and honey producers. Food is bought at local markets and prepared by the participants before being enjoyed with local wine. Discussions have been lively and entertaining, bringing the best out of everybody. Food ideas are mulled over and conclusions drawn. It adds up to a satisfying experience for both mind and palate.

Weekend courses, including accommodation, excursions, food and wine, but excluding flights, cost €590, week-long courses are €1,100. Ryanair flies from Dublin to the nearest airport, Carcassonne. See www.petracarter.com, tel: 00-33-468-407718