Cooking in: Aubergines are the steak of the vegetable world. They're versatile, robust and satisfying
I was sitting on a sofa looking out over a clear night sky, a piece of pitta bread piled with baba ganoush in one hand, a glass of excellent Lebanese wine in the other. It was hot, and my sofa, along with many others, was located among trees hung with lights. Actually I wasn't really sitting, I was lounging, as if I owned this multi-layered middle-eastern restaurant. My waiter thought it was time for a main course, but by that stage I had eaten my way through eight or nine mezze and needed a break.
I enjoy mezze so much I'd happily forgo the main course. Chickpeas are turned into falafel and hummus, aubergine is combined with tahini, or yoghurt, or spices and herbs. Vine leaves are stuffed to satisfying effect. Prawns are grilled and served with little more than salt and lemon.
But it is the aubergines I return to again and again for summer eating. They are the steak of the vegetable world. Think of rich ratatouille; Greek moussaka - properly made, not the travesty dished up to tourists; and caponata, with its spiky sweetness so suited to the Sicilian sunshine. Aubergines can also be fashioned into fritters and rendered silky smooth with an overcoat of light, crispy batter. This canoe of a vegetable was made for stuffing, with lamb or with other vegetables and cheeses.
We have grown used to the idea of our purple-into-black, trumpet-shaped specimens, but there are many others. Aubergines come in myriad shapes and colours, from streaked purple, fat and round, to tennis-ball sized cream specimens, not forgetting the miniature Thai aubergines, no larger than a pea.
There was a time when we salted aubergines before cooking them, and some continue the practice. It wilts the vegetable, almost cures it. Salting used to be thought to remove bitterness, but I have my doubts on this score.
All recipes serve 4
BABA GANOUSH
2 aubergines
2 tbsp tahini
1 garlic clove, crushed with a little salt
70g full-fat yoghurt
juice of 1 lemon
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
olive oil
Prick the aubergines several times and grill them until the skin is well blackened and the flesh is soft. This takes about 15 minutes, and you need to turn the aubergine two or three times so it cooks evenly.
Once they are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and mash the flesh roughly. Stir in the other ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper and spread them out on dish. Drizzle a tablespoon or two of olive oil over the top and serve.
AUBERGINE SALAD
2 medium-sized aubergines
2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 bunch coriander, roughly chopped
half tsp hot paprika
1 tbsp tahini
extra virgin olive oil
4 handfuls salad leaves
balsamic vinegar
100g black olives
1 lemon, trimmed and quartered
Preheat the oven to 180 degrees/gas four. With a sharp knife make incisions in the aubergines and stuff them with the slivers of garlic. Bake in the oven for 30-40 minutes until completely soft. Allow the aubergines to cool.
Remove the flesh from the aubergines, discarding the skin. Cut the flesh lengthways and then roughly chop it. Toast the cumin seeds in a dry frying pan and then grind to a powder. Combine the aubergine with the cumin, coriander, paprika, tahini, a seasoning of salt and pepper and enough olive oil to bind. Place in the fridge for 20-30 minutes.
Season the salad leaves with salt and pepper and toss with four tablespoons of olive oil and a splash of balsamic vinegar. Spread the aubergine mixture on to four plates and top with the salad. Scatter the black olives over the top and serve with a lemon wedge.
MEATBALLS, TZATSIKI AND BRAISED AUBERGINES
Meatballs
200g minced lamb
100g minced pork
1 tsp ground cumin seeds
1 egg
1 tbsp finely chopped shallots
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
half tbsp finely chopped oregano
Combine the ingredients in bowl and mix together thoroughly with your hands and season with salt and pepper. With a teaspoon dipped into cold water mould into balls.
Braised aubergines
2 aubergines
2 onions, peeled and chopped
2 garlic cloves
1 400g tin tomatoes
1 tsp fresh oregano
Roughly dice the aubergine, salt it and set aside in a colander for 10 minutes. Rinse off the salt with plenty of cold water and pat the aubergines dry. Fry in batches until golden brown and reserve.
Fry the meatballs for eight to 10 minutes or until lightly coloured. Gently saute the onions in two tablespoons of olive oil for 15 minutes, without allowing them to colour. Return the aubergine and meatballs to the pan, along with the garlic. Toss in the oil and then add the tomatoes. Top up with water to form a loose sauce. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for 20-30 minutes. Add the oregano five minutes before the end.
Tzatsiki
250ml yoghurt
3 tbsp finely chopped mint
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped and mashed with a little salt
Half a cucumber, seeds removed and finely chopped
Combine the cucumber with a teaspoon of salt in a sieve and leave to drain for 10 minutes. Rinse well under cold water. Squeeze out any excess liquid and combine with the other ingredients. Whisk together and transfer to a serving bowl.