SQUIRREL-EATING COMES TO BRITAIN

It's also the season for carnivores. And the American habit of eating squirrel has arrived in Britain

It's also the season for carnivores. And the American habit of eating squirrel has arrived in Britain. Thus, The Sunday Telegraph has, an article headed "Help Wildlife, Roast a Squirrel, says the Duke". He means that by killing a grey squirrel, which is legal, you give a better chance of life to the red squirrel, which is said to be diminishing in numbers, and is protected. (As it is here. The grey is not a protected species with us either.) Indeed, the Duke, the Duke of Buccleugh, has had his head ranger run courses on how to cook what he, or the Telegraph, calls the vermin. (If it's ver min, it's the most handsome of vermin, for, seen up close, as when they raid the bird feeders outside your, windows, the word grey is a misnomer. They have what women go to some trouble in hairdressers to get lovely highlights of reddish, blondish or gingery tints.

Anyway, twenty "people" were invited to the Duke's estate to sample the squirrel meat. A dozen had been roasted on spits and casseroled with herbs and chanterelles.

They tasted like chicken, but a rather more muscular texture. And somewhat boney. And the Duke? No, he hadn't yet sampled his gamekeeper's cuisine, but he had heard very good reports. Should be good. "They're free range, after all." Though, if this catches on, you wouldn't be surprised if some enterprising dealers started farming. them for sale in supermarkets.

The greys are twice the weight of the reds, and much stronger. This article says they are immune to a virus which is killing off many reds. The grey is an import from America brought about a century ago. Conservation groups in England are apparently trying to protect the red by using special hoppers to which greys cannot get access to because they are too big. In general reds stick to conifer forests where they get their main sustenance from the cones, while greys, usually favour hardwood areas with acorns, beech nuts and so on.

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Grey squirrels living near softie bird feeders have a good time, usually hanging upside down, with the tail firmly around the branch or wire, nibbling away. Vermin, says the article. Will landowners and others now have a go at trapping and eating mink? is there a case for letting nature take its course? Greys' peel back. So do reds. What's all the fuss about? Some claim that reds are reclusive and not so rare or not as near to annihilation as is thought.