An Irishman's Diary

THEY’RE HERE! Facilitated by recession-calmed rural roads from their Nenagh hotel, the gleaming highliner coach of the German…

THEY’RE HERE! Facilitated by recession-calmed rural roads from their Nenagh hotel, the gleaming highliner coach of the German Oberpfalz tour arrives early to a quiet upland village in Co Tipperary. Waiting to greet them, in no-nonsense attire, is a small group representing an area renowned for the strength of its community initiatives. Over the summer, German tours have been regularly visiting Upperchurch Village in a resolute attempt to escape the clichéd Dublin, Kerry, Galway tourist trail and discover the real, unsanitised, uncomely maidens – Ireland.

Alighting from the coach, the casually elegant but somewhat inscrutable visitors gaze curiously at their deeply rural surroundings. Then they watch silently as ardent community activist, Con Ryan, rises to welcome them while tour guide Jutta Shannon translates. In the past, the local economy has been almost totally dependent on agriculture, he explains, and low food prices meant deprivation was widespread. Immediately questioned on farm size by a retired agriculturist, he answers “almost 40 hectares”.

Someone comments that this is large by German standards, but Ryan explains that land in Upperchurch is universally marginal and disadvantaged.

Then, in a whirlwind of enthusiasm, he leads them through rustic lanes. Soon he is pointing out the site of a hedge school that was once the only source of education hereabouts. People seem taken aback when Ryan speaks of how he walked barefoot across the hills to school. This, I guess, is something you don’t hear in the Guinness Storehouse.

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Next, is a once-inaccessible bog that has recently been opened for visitors thanks to the laying of a deck-shoe friendly trail. Most have never seen a raised bog and someone immediately wants to know why there are so many boglands in Ireland. Later they learn that, in the old days, each child carried a sod of turf to school for the classroom fire.

One man comments on the relative affluence of the local housing. In response, he is told that despite the recession things have improved hugely for Upperchurch. Just 30 years ago a study projected the local population would inevitably fall to 400. Faced with the loss of the village school, the community responded and one of the first initiatives was a technology centre aimed at providing rural people with IT skills.

As we head back to the village, Con Ryan proudly points to the new community-owned creche that has created eight jobs. Nearby, work is about to start on an indoor rockclimbing facility, which is to complement a network of sublime walks through the surrounding hills and create additional tourism income for the area. Then there is a housing scheme which allows the elderly to continue living in the community and a new tourist/genealogy office that has opened nearby. The local population is now 1,200 and stable. Bucking the national trend, the previously one-pub village now boasts three such establishments.

While we walk, I fall into conversation with a couple of English-speaking Germans. Apparently they had anticipated more boarded-up businesses, ghost estates and fewer self-help attitudes. Timorously I ask about the Irish bailout, expecting heated mention, perhaps, of irresponsible “wild west banking”. Instead, they say they don’t mind “because their money is being spent wisely in Ireland”. Greece is a sore point, however, and I decide not to pursue.

Next, Ryan leads into the GAA field and introduces the group to schoolteacher, PJ Harrington. Immediately Harrington is into a subject he clearly loves – the story of hurling since the time of Cuchulainn. Then there are camans for everyone and straight away he prevents imminent decapitation by spreading the group across the pitch. Sliothars then arrive and there are smiles all round. Everyone is a kid once again, hollering, shouting and swinging wildly, but generally ineffectively at the elusive ball. It’s hard to master, but, no matter, people are having fun.

Local councillor, Billy Clancy, is soon volunteered for goalkeeper while visitors take turns to try and score. He does passably well, but eventually, to whoops of “gut schuss”, a couple of sliothars whiz past and we have a male and female hurling champion.

Everyone then heads off to the firelit comfort of Kinane’s Pub for tea and scones before being shepherded to a back room where Irish dancing teacher, Michael Loughnane awaits. This is no stage-managed Riverdance performance, however, but the real, unembellished deal. Soon, Loughnane has virtually everyone on their feet dancing sets. It isn’t pretty; couples collide, go the wrong way, lose their partners and fall over their feet. But the previously inscrutable group members are now enveloped with laughter and when the time comes to depart everyone shows their appreciation and there are hugs for the hosts.

Weeks later, news filters back from Germany. Oberpfalz, have chosen Upperchurch ahead of the Cliffs of Moher, the Ring of Kerry and many other attractions as the most memorable visit on their Irish tour, 2012.

Upperchurch Walking Festival takes place on November 9th, 10th, 11th, offering a huge choice of walks and musical entertainment. Further information, tel: 0504- 54284 or see upperchurch.ie