Some of the worst champagne in Ireland is in hotels and restaurants; it's not easy for proprietors to get their margins right and still come up with decent fizz at a tempting price. But Champagne Henri Goutorbe Brut, Cuvee Traditionelle NV is an exception - a thoroughly drinkable house champagne that sells on wine lists at about £30. Produced in Ay by Rene and Nicole Goutorbe - a quality-driven couple who impressed me during a cellar visit in May - it is imported by Michael O'Callaghan of Longueville House (022 47156), and is also on offer at the K Club, Coq Hardi, King Sitric, Marlfield House, Cashel House, Dromoland and some 50 other restaurants. About two-thirds Pinot Noir, one third Chardonnay, released after at least three years in bottle.