Lloyd Grossman's book on the 125 best recipes ever (see Megabites) pays tribute to numerous great food writers. But, for Edouard de Pomiane, he reserves the real critical kudos: "A French-born Pole who died in 1964, de Pomiane is the sharpest and wittiest cookbook writer of the century. His recipes have the sort of edge and concision that you find in classic Hollywood scripts. Whenever I read one of de Pomiane's recipes, I can imagine Groucho Marx reciting it."
If Groucho were reciting it, then the script would flow with the brilliant wit of S.J. Perelman, who wrote for the Marx brothers, and I often think that de Pomiane can easily match that great satirist and humorist. Just look at this recipe for Oysters with Sausages, a classic pairing. No one, but no one, could write this simpler, or better, and there is no greater pleasure when downing the mighty mollusc, than to remember this little haiku to good eating.
Oysters with Sausages
Fry some chipolata sausages. Serve them very hot on a dish and on a second dish a dozen oysters.
Alternate the sensations. Burn your mouth with a crackling sausage. Soothe your burns with a cool oyster. Continue until all the sausages and oysters have disappeared.
White wine, of course.