MINT is a divil. Make the mistake of taking it out of a pot and planting it in the ground, turn your back, and before you know it, the green leaves are everywhere, bullying all their surrounding companions, as rampant as electoral recounts in Dublin South-East.
If mint is a bully in the garden, it is a Bully in the kitchen, too. There is little subtlety in its persistence and sharpness, none of the composure of flavours we find in parsley or thyme. It jumps right in your face, unprepared to marry well with most anything else.
But here is a recipe where the harshness of mint is subdued, and where it works wonderfully well with the new potatoes in the shops right now. It's a delicious idea from Carla Tomasi, who cooks in London.
Potatoes in Olive Oil and Mint Sauce
750g/ 1/2 pounds small potatoes
75ml/ 2 1/2 Oz extra virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon tomato puree
1 tablespoon harissa (can be found in ethnic and wholefood shops)
1 teaspoon ground cumin a few sprigs of mint salt
Peel the potatoes and set aside. Using a wide, shallow, heavy-bottomed pan, heat oil, add sliced garlic, tomato puree, harissa, cumin and a good pinch of salt.
Cook very briefly stirring well. Add the potatoes, ensuring they sit in a single layer, then add enough cold water to barely cover them. Mix. Bring to the boil, add the mint and simmer until the potatoes are cooked - approximately 25 minutes.