Looted palace of Chemical Ali is haunted by ghost of his crimes

In a flat landscape of mud fields and flat-topped farmhouses, the palace of Chemical Ali stands out for miles

In a flat landscape of mud fields and flat-topped farmhouses, the palace of Chemical Ali stands out for miles. Its crenellated tower of yellowish stone rises above a stand of date palms. It is a symbol of dominance and power. Paul Harris, near Basra

Or at least it used to be; as soon as the war began, Ali abandoned his home.

Only the name of Saddam Hussein strikes as much terror into the hearts of ordinary Iraqis as Ali Hassan al-Majid. After organising the gassing of the Kurds in 1986, he is better known as Chemical Ali. He is President Saddam's cousin and right-hand man; a man who has killed many and helped terrorise a nation.

But for the looters of his mansion on the outskirts of Basra need has overcome their fear. His palace has been comprehensively robbed. Even the fittings have gone from the walls. The window panes have gone. The air-conditioning units have disappeared. There is not a scrap of furniture left. Hassan stood with his beaten-up Chevrolet car in the heat outside. Its boot was bulging with timber and glass from the palace. He chuckled as he saw the squad of British soldiers approaching.

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"Ali Chemical! Ali Chemical!" he said, pointing at the palace above him. His three young sons milled around.

The palace offers an extraordinary insight into the mind of the murderous Ali. All around stretch endless plains, dotted with poor tomato farmers who scratch a living from the drained marshes. Ali's house offers a stark contrast. The long, elegant drive passes two old military checkpoints, before curving into a compound surrounded by high wire fencing. It is an oasis of luxury in a land of dire need.

But it is the swimming pool that really emphasises the luxury that Ali enjoyed in this land of poverty. Water is in desperately short supply around Basra. But Ali's cavernous swimming pool ranks with the best that a Beverly Hills mansion could ever offer.

Two weeks after Ali fled, the pool is empty and lined with dust. Inside the house, the floors are covered with shattered glass, much of it from broken chandeliers.

Ali is now a wanted man. The Americans want to try him for crimes against humanity. His name is forever linked with that of the village of Halabja. It was Ali who ordered the killing of 5,000 Kurdish civilians there with a mixture of nerve gas and mustard gas. But, given his past actions, it is no surprise that those who loot his palace are still afraid of the name of Ali. Hassan covered his face as he loaded up his car and would not give his surname nor say where he is from. "I don't want to be seen here," he said. "Ali is a powerful man." Ali may be gone, but the ruins are haunted by the ghost of his crimes. - (Guardian Service)