Bottle Of The Week

Two Best Bottles from the Pfalz in the space of two weeks? No doubt about it: Germany's light, exhilarating whites are among the most delicious summer wines. Vier Jahreszeiten Durkheimer Schenkenbohl Spatburgunder Weissherbst, Pfalz, 1998 (Molloys Liquor Stores, also Karwig, Carrigaline, usually £7.99) is actually made from the red grape, Pinot Noir, but typically high German acidity means its fragrant, peachy fruit is treated to a generous big squeeze of lemon. It's a lovely, lighthearted drink - the sort of thing you can just dive into and enjoy. The name is the only problem. Look for the label's splashy butterfly.