Mystery of the week. How does a chap from Chablis turn round and produce a smouldering, full-bodied southern red such as Chevaliere Grande Reserve (outlets above, usually £8.49 - £8.99)? I've always enjoyed Michel Laroche's red Cuvee Speciale at around £6.99, but for the extra pound or two this blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah is miles ahead of it. Lay in a generous stock for the . . . grrrrrr. . . winter.