Freie Weingartner Gruner Veltliner Smaragd 1995 (Searson's, Monkstown, £8.95): Although many of the dynamic young things helping to revolutionise Austrian wine are successfully experimenting with well known varietals, there is also much development of indigenous grapes such as the gruner veltliner. This is a particularly classy example from a superb vintage, rich, full and well balanced with a luxuriously long finish from a co-op of high standards (see above). It is a wine of sophistication and charm at a reasonable price and a worthy flag bearer for this emerging wine power.