Some of the best Australian wines I've tasted come from a small Barossa Valley winery called Rockford. The winemaker-owner is Robert "Rocky" O'Callaghan, an outspoken individualist who helped salvage the Barossa's superb old vineyards, its traditional methods and its pride, when all were under threat from money-minded multinationals in the 1970s. Although he has only limited quantities available for export, O'Callaghan has dispatched Declan Ryan of Arbutus Lodge in Cork a small Irish allocation. Only right and proper, from a man who's almost as passionate about Ireland as he is about flavoursome wine. To judge by the reaction so far, Rockford wines are being received here with the sort of enthusiasm they deserve. And they're reasonably affordable, too, with restaurant prices ranging from £18.50 for the Eden Valley Riesling and the Dry Country Grenache, to £36 for the legendary and indisputably lovely Basket Press Shiraz.