From its outstanding architecture and unique regional delicacies to its flea markets and hectic nightlife, Slovenia's capital is a real treat, writes JAMIE SMYTH
A 10-MINUTE walk from Ljubljana station to the heart of the old city takes you past colourful art-nouveau buildings and magnificent baroque and Renaissance architecture similar to the type that draws tourists to megacities such as Paris or Rome. To cap it all, perched precariously on an outcrop above the old town is a magnificent medieval fortress that has protected the city’s inhabitants for two millennia.
Ljubljana may be one of Europe’s smallest capitals – just 270,000 people live within the city limits – but it offers visitors a diversity rarely found in cities twice its size.
Unlike some other central European cities that endured 50 years of communism, city planners refrained from demolishing the special blend of Italian baroque and art-nouveau buildings that characterise an old town now stuffed full of cafes, bars and upmarket boutiques.
It’s the charm of the old town that wins the hearts of most tourists. Preseren Square, which was recently pedestrianised, is a good place to start exploring. It acts as a type of living room for Ljubljana’s citizens, who go there to sip coffee, chat or watch the artists and buskers who regularly put on shows.
The banks of the Ljubljanica river are lined with busy restaurants and bars with seats that spill on to the walkways. In summer the neighbourhood throbs with energy. But Slovenes are a hardy lot, and in winter they brave the elements to drink their cappuccinos or hot wine alfresco. Patio heaters provide some respite from the chill, and many enterprising cafes provide cloaks to keep their patrons warm.
On Sunday mornings antique dealers displace the late-night revellers from the walkways beside the river, creating a flea market that sells all manner of bric-a-brac and souvenirs. Lace from the mining town of Idria is a popular gift; my favourites are panjska koncnica, which are panels from beehives that are painted with tales from local folklore. They usually cost between €10 and €20 and are easy to carry home.
The daily market, a two-minute walk from Preseren Square in the old town, is also worth a visit. It runs from Monday to Saturday and sells Slovene specialities such as prsut, sauerkraut, horse paté and plum brandy. Designed by Slovenia’s most famous architect, Joze Plecnik, the market is a seemingly endless stone colonnade running along the banks of the river between Ljubljana’s two most famous bridges. Anyone travelling on a budget shouldn’t miss the underground fish market and adjoining restaurant that serves a basic three-course lunch for as little as €7.
For those with a little more money to spend on good food, Ljubljana does not offer anything like the variety of dining options of London or even Dublin. But what it does offer is wholesome food prepared with fresh ingredients at reasonable prices. Traditional restaurants called gostilna usually offer game such as wild boar and venison. This is often washed down with a hearty red wine before a Slovene desert such as gibanica is served to the unsuspecting tourist. This calorie-bursting pastry is filled with walnuts, apple, poppy seeds and cheese and is presented with a cream topping. It is delicious, but be warned: regular exposure can play havoc with your waistline.
After spending a night gorging on rich food and wine there is nothing better than tackling one of Ljubljana’s many rambling options. The steep hike up to the castle along beautifully curved streets provides you with amazing views of the old town from different angles. At the top you can explore St George’s chapel and climb the 19th-century Belvedere Tower to get a bird’s-eye view of old and new Ljubljana. If you’re feeling a little under the weather, for a few euro a funicular will take you to the top, where you can indulge yourself again with more coffee and cake in the castle’s courtyard coffee shop.
Another popular rambling option is a walk through Tivoli park, with lawns, wooded areas and adventure playgrounds for children. Outdoor exhibitions are sometimes staged in the park, which is also home to the International Centre of Graphic Arts and the Museum of Modern History. But for those who enjoy spending an hour hiking in the woods, nothing beats the walk to the top of Roznik hill in Tivoli park to visit the church and, of course, the obligatory gostilna at the summit.
[ www.ljubljana.si/en/municipality ]
Go there
EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies to Ljubljana from London Stansted. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies to Stansted from Dublin, Cork, Belfast, Derry, Kerry, Knock and Shannon. Air France (www.airfrance.ie) flies from Dublin and Shannon via Paris. Lufthansa ( www.lufthansa.com) flies from Dublin via Frankfurt.
Where to eat, stay, go and shop if you're in Ljubljana for a weekend
Grand Union Hotel. Miklošiceva 1, 00-386-1- 3081170, www.gh-union.si. This beautiful art nouveau-style four-star hotel is a big hit with celebrities – the queen of England and Nick Cave have both stayed here. Next to Preseren Square, it is two minutes from the old city. Don’t miss its coffee shop, which serves delicious cream cakes in the type of grandeur usually reserved for Viennese coffee shops.
Hotel Lev Ljubljana. Vosnjakova ulica 1, 00-386-1- 4332155, www.hotel-lev.si. This is the only five-star hotel in central Ljubljana. It is in the business district, a short walk from the old town.
Antiq hotel. Gornji trg 3, 00-386-1-4213560, www.antique-hotel.com. This small family-run boutique hotel sits on a quiet street beneath the castle in Ljubljana’s old town. It has just 10 rooms, so early booking is advisable.
Hotel Slon. Slovenska cesta 34, 00-386-1-4701100, www.hotelslon.com. This hotel has long been a favourite with business travellers. It has 171 rooms and a popular coffee shop. There are plans to extend it in the next few years.
Hostel Celica. Metelkova 8, 00-386-1-2309700, www.souhostel.com. This recently renovated communist prison has become a Mecca for backpackers since winning the World’s Hippest Hostel award in 2006. Tourists stay in tastefully decorated former prison cells.
5 places to eat
Gostilna Figovec. Gosposvetska 1, 00-386-1- 4264410. Try the trademark horse-tartare to start, then the roast piglet. Many other regional delicacies are available at this 200-year-old restaurant. Main dishes cost €10-€30.
Spajza. Gornji trg 28, 00-386-1-4253094. This is my favourite restaurant in Ljubljana. It offers a good range of traditional Slovene food and sumptuous local wines in rustic surroundings. It’s a popular choice, so a reservation may be necessary at weekends. Main dishes cost between €10 and €30.
Valvasor. Stari Trg 7, 00-386-1-4250455. Named after one of Slovenia’s most famous scholars and historians, this flash new restaurant in the old city offers beautifully presented food at prices slightly above the norm for Ljubljana.
Ljubljanski dvor. Dvorni trg 1, 00-386-1-2516555. Gorge yourself on some of huge tasty pizzas while watching the world go by on the banks of the Ljubljanica river. Pizzas start at €5. Be warned: a large one could serious damage your waistline.
Okrepcevalnica Ribca, Adamic-Lundrovo nabrežje 1, 00-386-1-4261777. For travellers on a budget, a set lunch at this fast-food restaurant next to the fish market offers three courses with incredibly fresh fish for €7. Don’t expect any frills.
5 places to go
Ljubljana Castle. Grajska Planota 1, 00-386-1-2329994. Ljubljana’s imposing fortress, which sits on castle hill overlooking the old town, offers the best view of the city – and good coffee at less than €2.
SNG Opera in balet.
Zupanciceva 1, 00-386-1-2411740, www.opera.si. Ljubljana’s opera house, which was built in 1892, will reopen shortly after an extensive refurbishment.
HDD Tilia Olimpija. Celovska 25, 00-386-1- 4300550, www.hddolimpija. com. Winter sports are all the rage in Slovenia, and this professional ice-hockey club plays its matches at a venue in Tivoli park.
Gostilna As. Copova ulica 5/A (passage Knafljev prehod), 00-386-1-4258822 www.gostilnaas.si. Dance the night away with the beautiful people of Ljubljana just a few minutes’ walk from Preseren Square. This stylish nightclub stays open late and can get very crowded at weekends.
Cankarjev dom, Culture and Congress Centre, Prešernova cesta 10, 00-386-1-2417100, www.cd-cc.si. Buy a ticket to one of the frequent classical music concerts held at Ljubljana’s premier venue.
Where to shop
BTC city shopping mall, Smartinska 152, 00-386-1-5851100. Enormous retail outlet with more than 450 shops, selling both Slovenian and international brands.
Hot spots
The narrow cobbled streets of the old town are home to top designer boutiques while the nearby market sells all manner of cheap souvenirs. Be warned, however, that shops in the city centre close at 1pm on Saturdays and do not open on Sundays. But don’t miss the flea market on Sundays, when you can find genuine antiques alongside all manner of bric-a-brac.
Out of town
Ljubljana is right in the centre of Slovenia, so nowhere in this small country is more than two hours’ drive. My favourite trips are to the pristine Alpine lakes of Bled and Bohinj or to the subterranean Postojna caves in the karst region, where you can take a train deep underground to explore kilometres of tunnels created from springs.