Go Ireland: Gemma Tiptonsets the scene for the arrival of 10 Clipper yachts into the Co Cork town on the last leg of a journey that has taken them around the world
THE NEW road from Dublin to Cork makes the journey to Kinsale that much speedier, but there’s an even better way of getting to what must be one of Ireland’s most lovely harbour towns: by sea.
That’s exactly what 10 Clipper yachts will be doing when they put into Kinsale on the last leg of a journey that has taken them almost a year of round-the-world sailing. Expected to arrive on July 2nd, the town has been preparing one hell of a welcome, so what can you expect if you drive, fly (Cork airport is just under half an hour away), or sail to Kinsale?
First up, sailing in Kinsale is a joy, the Old Head provides shelter from the prevailing south westerlies, and the wide expanse of the bay is ideal for both pleasure sailing and racing. It’s also extraordinarily peaceful – jet skis (the mosquitoes of the sailing world) are not allowed, and navigating out of the harbour again, once you cut the engine and let the sounds of wind, wave and sail take over, the experience is transporting – in every sense of the word.
Although the boats coming into Kinsale for the Clipper race will be modern vessels, they are named for the Tea Clippers, which in the 19th century were the fastest ships in the world, racing back to port with precious cargoes of tea.
Sailing along Kinsale’s coast, hidden coves and caves reveal themselves, and you can easily imagine yourself in another era, and begin to see the haunts of smugglers, pirates and privateers.
One of the unique things about this race is that the yachts are crewed by “ordinary” people, many of whom had never sailed before, and who applied for places on the boats to experience the incredible challenges of round-the-world racing.
The journey so far has not been without its hiccups – the first Cork boat ran onto a reef – so we’re now racing with a new boat, and a new skipper, Hannah Jenner. One of her crew is 29-year-old Orla Mellett from Galway. “I’m looking forward to seeing family and friends in Cork and just thinking about how big it will be. If we get the weather and we get the people out it’s just going to be absolutely awesome and it’s one of the last big parties,” she says.
“At this stage it’s late in the race, people are tired and stopovers are going to be fast and furious. To have our home port so late, it keeps on driving us and is a great motivator. I can’t wait.”
The welcome being prepared in Kinsale includes a carnival, food fair (the town is, after all, known as the gourmet capital of Ireland), live music, street theatre and art events.
One of the landmark buildings, the KAW Art Hub at the Mill, has been specially renovated to host a series of exhibitions, including Stopover, which features artists from every country the Clippers have put into; plus exhibitions by Irish artists including Alice Maher, Dorothy Cross, Patrick Scott, Eithne Jordan, Catherine Barron and John Doherty (organised by Kinsale Arts Week).
The Clippers then sail up to Cork for the Parade of Sail (July 7th-9th). You may want to follow them, but then again, you may find you can’t quite bring yourself to leave Kinsale.
What to do and where to go in Kinsale
Sail into town
Kinsale is set up for sailing with chandleries and sail-makers, and everything you could need. Many use it as a base to head up to Baltimore, Crookhaven and Schull, while others sail around Ireland's version of Cape Horn, Mizen Head, and onto Kenmare and the west coast. Visitor berths available at Kinsale Yacht Club (kyc.ie) and Castlepark Marina (castleparkmarina.com) from approx €35 a night, depending on size of boat.
Charter your own yacht for a day or two, or even a week with Kinsale Yacht Charter, (kinsaleyachtcharter.com) and Sovereign Sailing, (sovereignsailing.com). If you're not a sailor yourself, you can hire a skipper and crew from Kinsale Yacht Services (kinsaleyacht services.com).
Discover sailing
Become skilled at sailing and you'll learn the secret that experienced crew are always welcome on board, and opportunities to sail for a race, a coastal outing, or even a trip abroad will open up. Courses throughout the summer, including kids' courses, with Kinsale Outdoor Education Centre (kinsaleoutdoors.com) and Sovereign Sailing (sovereignsailing.com).
On dry land
If you prefer to watch the sea from dry land, the Trident Hotel (tridenthotel.com), Acton's (actonshotel kinsale.com), Perryville House (perryvillehouse.com), the Old Bank House (oldbankhousekinsale.com), and the Pier House (pierhousekinsale.com) all have harbour views – though do specify you want a sea view when booking.
Eating and drinking
Fishy Fishy (fishyfishy.ie) is the routine winner of all manner of well-deserved restaurant awards, and these days booking is essential. Crackpots (crackpots.ie) has great food and a great atmosphere, while Jola's (jolasrestaurant.com) is romantic and atmospheric. Walk around the harbour and you come to Man Friday's (manfridaykinsale.ie), and then the pretty Spinnaker, down on the water in Scilly (021-4772098). You're spoiled for choice in Kinsale for pubs, and favourites include the Bulman in Summercove, The Dock at Castlepark Marina, and The Greyhound on Market Square.
Staying on
Kinsale Arts Week follows hot on the heels of the Clippers, with classical music, art exhibitions, theatre, comedy, street performance and talks including Mary Reynolds on garden design, a poetry cruise with Thomas McCarthy and readings by Gerard Smyth, Joseph O'Connor and Christopher Reid.
Highlights are always the bands playing at Charles Fort, which this year hosts the Bootleg Beatles, Camille O'Sullivan and the band Barack Obama "cannot get enough of", the Hypnotic Brass Ensemble. Get your tickets early! July10th-18th, kinsaleartsweek.com.
Still can't get enough?
Come back in August for Le Solitaire de Figaro, one of the most exciting single-handed races in the world, putting into Kinsale August 10th-17th, lasolitaire.com.
And if you're inspired to try for next year's Clipper race (2011-12), see clipperroundtheworld.com.
The last clipper
The last genuine tea clipper in the world,
The Cutty Sark, is currently under restoration in London. See cuttysark.org.uk for updates as to when she will be open for visitors again.
corkclipperfestival.com