On the track of Queen Maebh

Great Irish Roads A series by motoring historian Bob Montgomery

Great Irish RoadsA series by motoring historian Bob Montgomery

No 14 - The Cooley Peninsula

Like so many others who regularly travel the Dublin to Belfast road, I have long been beckoned by the Cooley Peninsula to come explore its secrets.

And secrets it has aplenty for this is a very historic landscape which played a central role in the story of the Táin Bó Cuailgne legend, as well as being associated with Finn MacCool. Many raths, as well as much evidence of the Norman presence here, are to be seen throughout the varied landscape.

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Having turned off the main Dublin-Newry road as it enters Newry at Drumalane onto the B79 following the signs for Omeath and Carlingford, the road runs beside the old Newry Canal which once brought ships into Newry itself. Victoria Lock, now an amenity area with picnic tables and car parking, at the head of the Newry Canal is a good place to start our journey.

The Newry Canal was the first summit level canal built in Britain or Ireland (1742) and facilitated the passage of goods from Carlingford Lough to Lough Neagh. Heading towards Omeath the B79 becomes the R173 as we cross the border.

The dark bulk of Slieve Foye (579m), the highest mountain in the Carlingford range, now rises ahead of us with its smaller companion, the Eagles Rock (528m), closer to us. Across Carlingford Lough can be seen Warrenpoint as our view of the lough opens out for the first time revealing the Mournes in all their glory on the opposite shore.

This is a very attractive road now hugging the coastline as it leads us to historic Carlingford. Few Irish towns have so much history woven into their structure as Carlingford with its Norman fortress of King John's Castle, medieval Tholsel and 15th and 16th century townhouses, as well as portions of its medieval wall. As a centre for walking, sailing and other outdoor pursuits, modern Carlingford is a bustling base for anyone who wishes to explore the Cooley Peninsula.

After Carlingford, one can continue along the R173 turning inland towards the road junction at The Bush, or alternatively one can continue alongside the coast for another few kilometres by taking the R176 towards Greenore.

This road ends in a junction with the R175, which taken in a south-west direction will lead us to the same junction at The Bush. At this junction of five roads take the road for the Windy Gap to begin the most spectacular part of our journey through this varied landscape.

As with so much of this peninsula, the Windy Gap is associated with Connacht's legendary Queen Maebh and her fabled raid into Cooley in search of the brown bull. Her route took her through the Cooley Mountains and she is credited with having gouged out the Windy Gap - Bearnas Bó Cuailgne - as a form of insult to the warriors of Ulster.

The road from The Bush to the Windy Gap is mostly straight climbing of the heather coloured slopes gently until it reaches the narrow Gap itself.

The road now begins a descent towards the town of Omeath providing spectacular views across the lough and back towards the Cooley Mountains. However, about 2½ kms from the Windy Gap watch for a narrow road branching left. For its first 2 kms, it's not the greatest surface (but certainly traversable without difficulty or damage). It leads up towards the Black Mountain (508m).

The road soon improves and along the way are several parking places with spectacular views across Carlingford Lough and, once the highest point of the road is passed, west towards Slieve Gullion.

The wooded slopes on the western side lead down to the end of our journey at Carrickcarnan on the main Dundalk-Newry road close to where the old customs posts were once located.

Arrival back on the busy main road yet again brings home to one that it's still possible in Ireland to be in the wilderness yet only minutes from busy areas of human activity.

The Cooley Peninsula is an exploration worth making and will reward anyone who forsakes the main road for Maebh's ancient landscape.

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