In the latest of the Great Drives series, BOB MONTGOMERYbraves the elements for a drive through Roscommon's Arigna Valley
IT HAS BEEN MY intention to include a drive through the Arigna Valley in each of the last two series of Great Drives, but somehow the weather defied my attempts to obtain suitable photographs on the several occasions that I travelled there for that purpose.
So much so, in fact, that I was almost convinced that this valley – with its many reminders of lives lived harshly in the hill country of north Roscommon – had its own micro-climate. Recently, I journeyed there once more and, on this occasion, the valley revealed itself in all its rugged splendour (between rain showers).
Begin your exploration at the village of Arigna, not far off the R260 out of Drumshanbo. The Arigna Mining Experience is situated here, and is something quite unique in an Irish context.
The centre was opened in 2003 and since then in excess of 350,000 people have visited it to learn about the experiences and lives of the miners who worked the narrow seams of poor-quality coal from as early as 1788, when iron works were established there. A visit to the centre includes a unique underground tour in what was Ireland’s last working underground coal mine, closing for the final time in 1990.
Take the road up past the entrance to the Arigna Mining Experience, which gradually climbs along the edge of the southwestern side of the Arigna Valley. On the other side of the valley can be seen the numerous windmills that make up several wind farms on Corry or Seltannasaggart mountain (426m) and on the hills to the north of the valley.
The views are impressive and unexpected – in particular over Lough Allen to the east – but the valley itself has considerable charm, and is one of those landscapes one can imagine little changed over the centuries and that today provides a glimpse into the past.
Along the way there are many signs of the valley’s mining past with unnatural mounds of mining debris that have been assimilated into the landscape with the passage of time.
All too soon the road swings sharply southwest, away from the valley itself. At this point there is also a road that continues on around the valley edge and returns to Arigna village on the north-eastern side of the valley.
I can’t recommend this road, owing to its roughness in places – but in a 4X4 or a vehicle with extra ground clearance, it’s easily navigable and is an interesting journey through the heavily wooded landscape that cloaks the head of the valley.
Having continued on the better of these two roads, our route now takes us across a different, more mountainous landscape on the southern slopes of Carrane Hill (458m). Looking west and southwest, many lakes are visible and must provide a fine view on a sunny day. However, for me, the rain had returned and the sky had gone dark leaving me with nothing to do but to amble down to the R284 at Gaevagh and the end of my exploration of the Arigna Valley.
I found a strange attraction in this valley, bearing as it does silent witness to the hard lives of those who lived and worked there in times gone by, yet not so long ago. I heartily recommend you explore its attractions – just try your best to pick a day when the sun chooses to shine upon the landscape.