What to drink this St Patrick's Day

WINE:Raise a glass of something Irish, or with an Irish connection

WE COULD, ANDpossibly should, drown the shamrock with a home-produced drink, and that means either beer or whiskey, although I would urge you to try a glass of the excellent Eden apple brandy. However, if you are planning a celebratory feast, a glass of wine may well be more appropriate.

With lamb, there are few finer than a glass of good Bordeaux. Other Cabernet Sauvignon blends are fine, but the dry tannins of a Bordeaux provide the perfect foil to the rich meatiness of a roast of lamb. In fact, a pink roast of lamb is my preferred option anytime I decide to uncork one of my treasured old bottles of claret. Pick one of the Wild Geese châteaux if you wish; I would go for the right bank (Médoc or Pessac-Léognan) rather than a Pomerol or St Émilion.

Corned beef is not quite so easy with wine. All that salt and spice can overpower and clash with many wines. Here, a nice glass of stout would go down a treat, even better if it is served with cabbage and mash. Why not seek out one of the Irish micro-brews from the Whitewater Brewery or the Hilden Brewing Co?

If you must have wine, there are two schools of thought. You could go for something light and fresh with plenty of acidity, such as a Beaujolais or a Barbera from Italy. Alternatively, fight might with might and choose a big, powerful red from Australia or the south of France. A juicy Shiraz or a southern Rhône should be able to stand up and be counted.

Another Irish option is salmon. Baked or poached, but always drenched in butter, this is the time to trot out your finest Chardonnay, be it from Burgundy, western Australia, or California. If you prefer red wine, try a light Loire red such as Chinon or Bourgeuil, or a New Zealand Pinot Noir.