Iceland is a tapestry of geysers and mineral springs, lava fields and lake-filled craters, volcanoes and glaciers. Niamh Hoopertakes an adrenalin-fuelled short break in the land of the midnight sun and the Northern Lights
Heated handlebars could be considered a luxury. But when straddling a snowmobile at minus five degrees Celsius as a blizzard whips up, they'd be up there on the essentials list. You'd think the five layers of clothing plus padded jumpsuit, balaclava, helmet, two pairs of socks, boots and two sets of gloves in which we're swaddled would keep us insulated against the elements, but alas, no. Within minutes of pulling away from the little wooden hut near the edge of the Myrdalsjökull glacier on my snazzy red and black vehicle - effectively a high-class motorbike on skis - the fingers whose job it is to pull the brakes are seizing up with the cold.
Thankfully, Benedict, our guide, checks on each of us and twiddles a knob on my handlebars. Sorted. The heater's on, my fingers thaw out and from then on I happily bounce across the glacier, race up and down steep hills of snow and ice, leaning left and right to avoid toppling over as we take corners. Occasionally we stop for snowmobiles outwitted by snow-mounds. As the snowstorm flurries throughout, it's hard to see the vehicle in front, not to mention decipher the location of our group leader who is equipped with an essential GPS device. Despite 15 years' experience on the job, he doesn't take any chances.
It isn't until we are back in the hut having an après-ride cuppa that our exhilaration turns to terror and then relief as Benedict casually mentions that what had been our playground for the previous hour is, in fact, the most dangerous glacier in the country. The volcano, Katla, lying beneath the icecap last exploded in 1918 and is due another burp.
Welcome to Iceland, the land of belching volcanoes, rumbling earthquakes, black sand beaches, the mid-Atlantic ridge, the midnight sun, the Northern Lights and the most laidback people imaginable. Stress isn't a concept the Icelanders understand.
In fact, in Iceland when a volcano erupts people instinctively head directly to it, unlike elsewhere in the world where they go as fast as possible in the opposite direction. Among the locals there is a total absence of fear regarding potential natural disasters - there is instead curiosity and excitement in witnessing how its geology evolves before their eyes. This may have something to do with the fact that every four years there is a volcanic eruption on the island.
At only 16 million years old, Iceland is still forming. Geologically it is still in its infancy in comparison to Europe and America at 150 million years old. But what it lacks in age it makes up for in variety. And as it's only a two-and-a-half-hour direct flight from Dublin, it's perfect for a weekend adventure.
Touching down in Keflavík Airport, the island's only international airport, it's a 40-minute drive through the lunar landscape to the capital. In contrast to the mayhem of most big cities, Reykjavik is a refreshing retreat. Although it is home to three-quarters of the country's population of 300,000, the central district is small and contained. Laugavegur is the main shopping street and here, nestled together, are eclectic record shops, trendy boutiques, cool cafes, restaurants and clubs. The area is widely known by its zipcode - 101.
Although quiet during the week, it comes alive at the weekend. Damon Albarn from pop group Blur is reputed to have a pub there, but nobody seems to know where it is. But, judging by the compact nature of the central district it can't be too far, and with a street of pubs, there's no shortage of drinking opportunities. And if you haven't been warned already, remember to bring your flexible friend - you'll need it. Prices are steep.
For something a bit different there's the Ice Bar in the Kaffi Reykjavik which is made of ice from glaciers, and that includes the bar and benches on which to sit. Needless to say it's chilly, so warm ponchos are provided for guests.
A short walk from the central area of town towards the ocean you'll encounter The Hofdi House, which, along with musician Sigur Rós and bizarre pop chanteuse Bjork, helped put Iceland on the world map. It was here that Soviet leader Mikhael Gorbachev and US President Ronald Reagan met in 1986, marking the end of the Cold War.
Worth a visit, too, is Restaurant Perlan - recommended for both the quality of its food and its magnificent 360-degree view of the city. Situated on the fourth floor, the restaurant floor slowly revolves, taking two hours to complete a full rotation of this stunning vista. For a delicious meal of fresh salmon, try the Kaffi Reykjavik restaurant.
Should you choose to go exploring beyond the central district - and I can't recommend it highly enough, organised tours can collect guests directly from their hotels.
The real attractions of Iceland are found outdoors. Iceland is a tapestry of geysers and mineral springs, lava fields and lake-filled craters, volcanoes and glaciers in an almost treeless landscape. As the joke goes: what do you do if you get lost in a forest in Iceland? Stand up.
The most popular of daytrips in Iceland is the Golden Circle Tour (€80pp), which includes a visit to the majestic Gullfoss Waterfall. Meaning Golden Falls, this is a beautiful, thundering 105ft double cascade. The tour also includes a geyser field with foul-smelling bubbling turquoise water and the great Geysir, from which the term geyser originates. Reluctant to live up to its name these days, its smaller sidekick, Strokkur, known as the Churn, reliably spouts water 60-100ft into the air every five or six minutes.
From a viewing platform in Pingvellir, a national park that is on UNESCO's World Heritage List and where the Icelandic parliament was established in the year 930 (making it the oldest known functioning parliament in the world), you can see the mid-Atlantic ridge. It is intriguing to see where the tectonic plates housing America on one and Europe on the other are pulling apart at 1.6 to 2 inches per year.
Next up on my trip is a visit to Kerio, the richly-coloured 140ft deep volcanic crater partially filled with water where several years ago Bjork famously performed a unique concert on a raft in the water, with the audience on the slopes.
On our travels through the stark landscape, we see in the distance Vatnajökull, Iceland's largest glacier, which is almost 1km thick, and occasionally spot rocks with little red, green, blue and other brightly-coloured doors painted on them. These are where the "Hidden People", elves or trolls of Icelandic legend, supposedly live.
On each trip there are special attractions - two of my favourites are Seljalandsfoss waterfall, which you can walk behind, and Skogafoss waterfall, behind which, legend has it, there is a cave in which a treasure chest belonging to the pioneer settler, Prasi, is hidden. We visited both waterfalls on the snowmobiling trip.
A more hands-on, rugged way to see the stunning glacier scenery is off-road on a super-jeep safari - whether as a group, or privately. Ditching my high heels for 44-inch wheels, I manage to sweet-talk Christian, my guide from Iceland Rovers, to let me slip behind the wheel of a modified Land Rover Defender at one stage and drive through rivers and negotiate a snow-capped geothermal plant, where, three miles beneath us molten magma that is used to create electricity was bubbling away.
It is thirsty work. We lunch that day in Eyrarbakka, the 19th-century coastal village of pastel-painted aluminium houses with corrugated iron roofs, and eat the best seafood soup I've ever tasted, in Rauda Húsid restaurant. Not far from here is Mt Hekla, Iceland's most active volcano - it has erupted on average every 10 years since the 1970s, the last time being in 2000. In times past, it was believed to be the gateway to hell.
Tourists visiting Iceland between October and April could be in for a treat - during this time you can witness one of nature's most spectacular light shows, known as the Northern Lights. If you take an evening trip you could be lucky enough to experience the ethereal aurora borealis swirling across the heavens.
But regardless of the time of year, no trip to Iceland would be complete without soaking in the milky blue oasis of the Blue Lagoon. In fact, as it is only 15 minutes from Keflavík airport, it's not uncommon for people to come for a dip between transatlantic flights. Set within a field of dried black lava and stark volcanic hills on the Reykjanes peninsula, the waters of the geothermal spa are a soup of mineral salts, silica and blue/green algae. A mix of sea and fresh water from wells as deep as 6,600ft, the temperature is a warm and inviting 36-39 degrees Celsius all year round. At €60 per person, it's expensive, but worth it to smear yourself with the white silica mud, swim under little bridges to the interlinking pools, have a sauna or steam bath, indulge in a massage treatment while floating on a lilo in the water, or merely hang out.
The phenomenon that is the Blue Lagoon began when a worker at a nearby power plant who suffered from psoriasis started bathing in the lagoon and found his skin disorder improved, apparently due to the mineral content of the algae. All you need is your swimsuit, the rest is provided.
It is one of the most unusual and heavenly spots I've encountered, as is the entire island of Iceland. If you plan a trip, remember two things: bring plenty of cash - there are so many once-off opportunities you'll want to avail of when you're there. And brings lots of layers. They often experience four seasons in an hour, without warning.
Wallace Travel Group offers three- and four-night packages to Iceland, including direct return flights, four-star accommodation and airport transfers, costing from €479pp. The first trip next year is on March 20th-24th, which is Easter weekend. Book on 01-8347888. Icelandair flies from London, Glasgow and Manchester to Reykjavik. See www.icelandair.co.uk