After more than a decade of working for other people, Cuan Hanly went out on his own in 1996. The decision has been more than fully justified because Hanly spotted a market for well-produced menswear with just a hint of quirkiness. His collections are always based around suiting and that remains the case for the new season. Jackets tend to be single-breasted and, for the fashion-conscious, have a slim silhouette matched by narrow-legged trousers. Hanly also likes to offer frockcoats which work as well with jeans as matching pants. As usual, colour combinations are subtle, working through discreet checks and pinstripes in the tailoring and stitch details in the knitwear. Sweaters come in 100 per cent cotton and strong, basic shapes. Shirts are also based around pure cotton in various natural colours, with some viscose used for a more fluid and soft approach. As with suits, the shirt is available in a variety of shapes from classic to sporty short-sleeved varieties.