Twice a day the tide retreats to reveal the full expanse of beautiful Omey beach at Claddaghduff in Connemara. It then becomes possible to walk or drive to the island where two men live, some 20 houses remain and more than 300 cattle graze. Herds regularly move between the island and the neighbouring village farms.
About four miles to the north-west of Omey island lies Ardoileβn, or High Island, the site of an important monastic settlement founded by St FΘich∅n. Many a watcher has viewed the elusive High Island, a difficult place to approach by sea, from Omey, which itself possesses a heritage treasure. The ruins of Templefeheen, a small medieval church honouring FΘich∅n is situated in the sand hills of the north shore.
This wide, sandy beach is an idyllic place for exercising dogs and horses. And, as last Sunday demonstrated, with the revival of the Omey Horse and Pony Races, a wonderful, natural venue for racing.
Last held in 1963, the races have never really slipped from local memory. The event has a long history and is part of Claddaghduff's tradition. Local people in their 80s can't remember a time in the past when the races weren't held. For them, the revival inspired much reflection and some emotion.
For the rest of the large attendance, it was very exciting and left one with the feeling of being privy to something special. Fechine Mulkerrin, a member of the four-person Omey Race Committee, along with Malachy King, Tom Delappe and Trina Sweeney, leaves no doubt that the races were revived for the people of Claddaghduff, not for the tourists.
It was Mulkerrin who purchased High Island from poet Richard Murphy when the State declined the offer. Born on Omey Island, he has lived in Claddaghduff all his life and believes heritage is about preserving tradition, not encouraging commercialism. The village is a community not a resort.
From about noon, as the tide went out, a small team of volunteers was busy getting the course ready. Wooden posts were set into the sand by a digger and the mile round circuit was taped off. A couple of horses trotted across the beach. Hardly early entrants, they and their riders seemed too relaxed to have racing on their minds. But as the minutes passed, the first of the horse boxes appeared.
More cars and horse boxes followed. Onlookers strolled in across the stones and the seaweed, and down on to the sand. Most of the vans and four-wheel drives congregated in the middle of the course. There were a few large horse transporters.
The beach was quickly transformed into a race track, albeit an unusual one with the sea and the island providing a lovely backdrop.
Connemara was looking its best in the fine weather of the past fortnight. The bookmakers set up their stands. Horses were unloaded and there was nothing casual about their handlers.
The scene became busier and more businesslike. The riders, many of them professional jockeys wearing silks, looked twitchy, anxious to get to work. They were here to race.
Although planned in just under three weeks, the races with its seven-race card attracted serious owners and good riders. Word of mouth is effective in the horse world, entries were from as far a field as Co Donegal. The prize money had been raised by a race night at Sweeneys pub in Claddaghduff and by sponsors from the area and nearby Clifden. The aroma of hot-dogs wafted on the breeze exciting visiting dogs who were welcome as long as they were on leashes. Actress Olwen Fouere who was born at Aughris and grew up in Connemara, remembers the races as they were. "It was more like a fair, with stalls and sideshows, and athletics events." This new Omey Races are geared completely to horses and ponies.
Talk was dominated by form and placing bets, even confirmed non-betters edged towards the bookies. The first race, the Knockbrack Derby, went to Forgive and Forget. While the crowd seemed as one drawn to the attractions of horses galloping on sand, the commentator, Thomas O'Reilly from Dingle, proved a draw in himself. As the afternoon went on, he showed himself to be knowledgeable and quick with one-liners. Sulky and Magic came in first and second in the Cleggan Plate.
The Connemara Plate did not get away too cleanly. A number of false starts caused O'Reilly to remark with some exasperation. "Come back lads, you know where the start is." After yet another false start, he announced with heavy irony: "This could be an interesting race." She's Mine was the eventual winner. The big field in the Aughris Derby was quickly divided by class. "They're strung out like a line of washing," said O'Reilly, who was wearing a Nike cap. "I thought racing commentators always wore trilby hats," observed a woman with a eye for detail. "They don't have to," replied her companion.
Most of the individual races were named after local places and were the same names used when the races were last run. "We took the names from the 1963 programme," said Mulkerrin.
Tension began to build for the feature race, the Omey Plate, with £1,000 for the winner over one mile. Included among the runners was Miss Lewinsky. She didn't win but Run, Willie, Run did - as in life, so too sport. Miss Lewinsky however certainly had strong support on the beach.
Most of the races were dominated by horses with that unmistakable racehorse quality look about them. Of the 60 entries, horses outnumbered the local favourite, the Connemara Pony. The breed, from pony to small horse size, has a huge appeal. Its popularity was obvious from the interest generated by the announcement of a race for Connemara ponies of all sizes.
This was hotly contested by teenager Emer MacNamara from Clifden on her grey, Mafia. She quickly took the lead but down the home straight was not only under pressure from the smallest pony in the race Magheramore Lad, ridden by 11-year-old James Kelly, but Mafia began to pull strongly to the right.
It looked as if MacNamara, wearing a brightly coloured rugby jersey, and her pony could well end up watching the finish of the race among the spectators. But she held on, just about, as the little pony, coming up hard on the inside, closed the gap to within inches.
The race not only produced an exciting finish, it also reflected a family's history. When the races were last run here in 1963, long before she was even born, Emer MacNamara's grandfather won three events. But why did Mafia suddenly lose interest in the finishing line? "He recognised his trailer," explained the teenager. "That's where his feed is."
The Claddaghduff Chase seemed to be an all-girl affair judging by the names of the entries including Uptown Girl, Little Annie and the aptly named She's The One. The longest race of the day, the Clifden Plate over two miles was won by Little Willie.
Next year, the horse boxes will not be allowed to park in the centre of the track. "That way everyone can have a clear view of the entire course" says Mulkerrin. He also hopes the success of the event will encourage Connemara pony owners to enter.
Many families in the area have at least one pony, kept for breeding and usually ridden by the children. It's a tradition. The Omey Races could inject a more competitive element to those who already enjoy riding, while breeders will certainly be aware of the event.
Horses were fed and boxed, the trailers left. Peace returned to Omey beach. A volunteer team cleared the litter. Dogs were released off leads. A stately heron flew over the scene. All back to normal.
A magnificent sunset supplied the perfect ending to an exciting and important celebration of Connemara's heritage.