HARDLY surprising that, given Dublin's genteel affluence, the city now has its own cafe society to rival the best in continental Europe. Despite the increasingly sophisticated variety of coffee - and stickybun - establishments which seen to daily spring into being, the public still displays a tenacious allegiance to the original of the species. The contemporary Bewleys, while somehow lacking the charm and ambience of Bewleys Oriental Cafes of yesteryear, remains a Dublin institution, still one of the most popular nonalcoholic watering holes in which to recharge the body system while topping up caffeine levels and perusing a daily newspaper.

Bewleys' mass appeal and prosperity continues under the stewardship of the Campbell contract catering group. Campbell Bewley this week reported a 50 per cent rise in group pretax profits to £2.5 million, with turnover moving ahead 19 per cent to £68 million. Contract catering is a growth area, providing over 50 per cent of sales with 80 per cent of revenue generated in the Republic. In the retail market Bewley's tea and coffee is now served in over 7,000 establishments in Ireland and Britain. Apart from its chain of coffee houses the group also operates two hotels, in central Dublin and on the Naas Road.

Campbell has taken the Bewleys coffee shop culture beyond these shores and, apart from outlets in the UK, intends to open cafes in New York and Boston next year. At home the group has earmarked around £5 million to refurbish its three city centre cafes in Dublin. To the delight of many, Bewleys also plans to offer an alternative to the ubiquitous but desolate practice of self service, going back to its roots to reintroduce table service in all three cafes. Time, I think, to cross Westmoreland Street for my own injection of caffeine.