DON'T you really miss the old days when Hollywood was synonymous with bad taste? When the American film industry did everything to excess - and then added a generous sprinkling of rhinestones just in case no one had noticed? When everything had to be sized extra large, and that included any aspiring starlet's chest measurements, Elizabeth Taylor's jewellery and Zsa Zsa Gabor's divorce settlements? Above all, when Dolly Parton seemed to set the standard in matters of dress.
Until a couple of years ago, the Oscars ceremony provided an annual chance to marvel at Hollywood's interpretation of glamour, and very scary it looked too. King of the shock frock was an American designer called Bob Mackie, a man to whom the sequin industry owes an eternal debt of gratitude.
Mr Mackie loved a bit of a sparkle he was responsible for Cher's ensembles during the time when the singer/actress used to turn up wearing thin strips of glitter over essential parts of her surgically enhanced anatomy and not very much else. He can also claim credit for the outfit Barbra Streisand wore when she won her Oscar for Funny Girl back in 1968 - a pair of black chiffon pyjamas which clearly revealed she had not yet discovered the delights of the gym. Mackie was the designer approached by every star planning to make a long and emotional speech of gratitude while clasping her statuette - unless, that is, the star in question had decided to turn creative. That used to be the approach taken by the likes of Melanie Griffith and Geena Davis; a few years ago, the latter proudly sported one of her own designs to the Oscars, looking as though she had swathed herself in a pair of heavily ruched curtains.
Sadly, the era of rampant bad taste - not to mention extravagant use of fabric - seems to have drawn to a close. When it comes to Oscar style Hollywood has belatedly discovered discreet understatement and the silk crepe slip - as seen on Courtney Love in a virginal white version by Versace on Monday - has totally displaced the giant taffeta puffball.
The turning point came a mere two years ago when Uma Thurman arrived at the ceremony in a lilac chiffon shift and matching stole made specially for her by Italian designer Miuccia Prada. While all around her dresses screamed for attention. Thurman's simple garb quietly stole the show. Last year, Sharon Stone presented an award wearing a black crew neck sweater from The Gap and confirmed the triumph of low key dressing.
When it comes to whispering good taste, no one carries more authority than Giorgio Armani. The Milan master has been steadily increasing his authority at the Oscars, as more and more stars turn to him, confident they will be given something subdued but luxurious to wear. On Monday night, Armani was responsible for dressing no less than 20 actors, among them master of ceremonies Billy Crystal, Lauren Bacall, Brenda Blethyn, Woody Harrelson, Glenn Close and Jodie Foster.
Even actors who went to a designer other than Armani still kept a check on their desire to make a splash. Madonna, never renowned for keeping a low profile, managed to look fairly subdued in a black lace hourglass dress with fishtail hem by John Galliano. The same designer provided Nicole Kidman, who wore pale blue Prada last year, with a chartreuse green satin shift with Chinese motif from Galliano's first couture collection for Dior. Francesca Annis, accompanying Ralph Fiennes, picked a mink satin crepe slip with drape neckline by Pearce Fionda, and young British actress Emily Watson went to another English label - Amanda Wakeley - for her steel grey chiffon dress with train.
A long time resident of Paris, Kristin Scott Thomas chose Christian Lacroix for her blue/black shawl collared chiffon and net ensemble, while Juliette Binoche was clothed in russet coloured crushed velvet by another French designer, Sophie Sitbon. It's a measure of just how understated Hollywood style has become that the raised collar on Binoche's coat was the most discussed fashion item of the night. Some thought it striking, others said it reminded them of a benign Snow Queen. In any case, it seemed to stand the test of time.
Maybe it's time for Bob Mackie and his sequins to make a comeback?
