The local and organic food-producing sectors have struggled to make an impact in this country but, in the past few years, there have been encouraging signs of growth. A rural food conference in Athlone this week has provided guidelines for the development of farmers' markets. It identified consumer trust, the provision of choice and remaining faithful to local and seasonal foods as necessary elements.
If we are to enjoy the kind of fresh food outlets that are so popular in France, there will have to be significant change in the way things are done here. Happily, there are signs that Government Departments, local authorities and various regulatory agencies are beginning to pull together to encourage the establishment of such markets and to ensure they are consumer-friendly, sustainable and profitable. A grant support system is now in place and local authorities and public health agencies are being encouraged to facilitate them. The support of Fianna Fail and Green Party ministers for the initiative is particularly welcome.
There are, as might be expected, teething problems. Local shopkeepers resent competition, particularly from those casual traders who sell imported fruit and vegetables. Small-scale producers find health agencies to be excessively bureaucratic. The savings that consumers expect to make, in the absence of commercial middlemen, do not always materialise.
Parallel developments have taken place in the growth of country markets and farmers' markets. Combining the synergies of these outlets in order to benefit local food producers and organic farmers would make sense and provide greater consumer choice. Protocols will be required, however, to ensure the food is produced locally and that markets meet strict standards of safety and hygiene.
Less than one per cent of agricultural land is used for organic production here and there are fewer than 1,500 registered operators. Only in the production of organic beef and lamb are we self-sufficient. A great deal will have to change if organic tillage and horticulture are to contribute to wealth generation and rural development.
Specialised food producers of local delicacies must also be encouraged. A growing number of cheese firms that began life in country markets are now supplying multinational outlets. Quality, freshness and hygiene are basic requirements. If traceablility and organic farming practices can be guaranteed as added value so much the better. In a changing world, the discriminating consumer has become the arbiter of success or failure.