An Irishman's Dairy

Hands up all those who, when first setting up home, used old tea-chests instead of unaffordable furniture

Hands up all those who, when first setting up home, used old tea-chests instead of unaffordable furniture. The trusted tea-chest was the most utilitarian piece in the house. It became the dog's kennel, a platform when wallpapering, or a store for household bric-a-brac. Even the lovely silver paper lining the insides had its uses. Now, like the milk-bottle, the humble chest may soon be but a fond memory. Because of and more sophisticated shipping methods and the rising cost of timber, the tea-chest may soon be as rare as a hen's tooth.

People moving house, dog lovers and hoarders are warned. No more the easy availability of a convenient and inexpensive utility box. Today, with a few exceptions, most tea producing countries are packing their teas in paper sacks.

There is, however, one bright spark on the horizon. Darjeeling, that champagne of teas, still comes in the reliable chest. Today, if you can get hold of one, it could cost up to £5. Changing times indeed, compared with some years ago when Gay Byrne on radio offered upwards of 500 empty tea-chests absolutely free. Simply come and collect them from the warehouse.

30,000 chests

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Today all teas arrive on pallets in containers. This is far removed from the days of direct sailings from Calcutta when ships could carry as many as 30,000 chests on board. Each chest had to be individually loaded and unloaded in a backbreaking exercise. A rough voyage created havoc and spillage was considerable. On arrival it took four to six weeks to unload, sort and store each importer's consignment. In earlier times we had the famous tea clippers, complete with sails, racing to London from the East - a round voyage that could take as long as four years and never less than two.

Tea was first auctioned in the famous sales room in Mincing Lane, London in 1834 and this remained the centre of the tea world for over 100 years. Last June a packed house read the last rites to London auctions, and a silent tear was shed as the trade witnessed the end of an era. Tea is now generally sold from country of origin, as much for political as financial reasons. Where once the bulk of our requirements came from Assam, the emphasis has now shifted to East Africa, especially Kenya. Some teas continue to be imported from Sri Lanka (Ceylon) and Indonesia. The trick for the tea taster-cum-blender is to buy the right teas at the right time, at the right price, to give uniformity of taste throughout the year.

The Irish are not only the world's heaviest tea drinkers, consuming almost 7 lbs per capita annually, but we are also renowned for buying good quality teas. Almost everyone today uses tea-bags, be they round or square. However, self styled connoisseurs will vehemently argue that a real cuppa can be made only from leaf tea, and only if the basic rules are observed: use freshly boiled water, allow the brew to draw for five minutes, and use china cups. Generally our soft Irish water makes good tea; compare your brew at home with the last tea you tasted in, say, Heathrow Airport.

Cheapest drink

It is a sobering thought that, after water, tea is the cheapest drink in the world. Little wonder, then, that not a thought is given to emptying the cold tea down the sink. Next time, consider feeding your house-plants with it or use the spent tea-bags as a salve for tired eyes.

Some tea addicts love to experiment. Not for them your standard teas, but something more exotic such as Earl Grey, Jasmine or even the tarry, pungent Lapsang Souchong from China. A relatively new tea from the Cape Town area - Rooibos - is beginning to find favour with some. It's a sort of halfway house between herbal and orthodox tea. It is free of caffeine and low in tannin.

But whatever our preference, freshness is still a factor. Tea, if properly stored, has a long shelf-life. An old biscuit tin full of large leaf tea was recently found in an attic. It had once belonged to the finder's grandfather and was at least 40 years old. At a tasting session its only fault was one of flatness. This apart, it still had a taste of tea and wouldn't have poisoned anyone.

The change from chests to bags, though sad to see, will continue to guarantee the freshness we expect. But let's console ourselves in the knowledge of the ecological benefits. The felling of timber has been reduced considerably and we can always regale our grandchildren with tales of the good old days when all teas arrived in the venerable wooden chest.