Resplendent in a black cape and matching Spanish hat, Mr George Sandeman is holding forth on how to detect a decent wine at a party near you this festive season.
Never mind the bouquet or the impressions on the palate. "As long as it doesn't smell mouldy or have chunky bits floating about in it, then it is all right," he says.
The eldest son of the seventh generation of the Sandeman family, which began trading ports and sherries in 1790, was in Dublin to meet the company's oldest agent. Mr Peter Wallis, managing director of Edward Dillon & Co, the Dublin-based drinks distributors, proudly passed around a copy of the original letter of contract, signed by a Sandeman in 1903.
Now general manager of the House of Sandeman, George first tasted the beverage as a baby. He will not be nasty about much-maligned wines, saying "they are well-made wines but of a style I don't enjoy".
The Sandeman story began two centuries ago in London, where the original George, a Scot, plyed his trade. Choosing wines from Portugal and Spain, the House of Sandeman became the first port establishment to label its produce and the first to advertise them.
Then there was the Sandeman Don, a mysterious figure conceived in 1928 by artist George MassiotBrown, which became one of the first ever trademark images created. Passersby outside the L'Ecrivain restaurant in Dublin this week knew who the cape and wide-brimmed hat represented. "It's the Sandeman man," one said as, like a true marketeer, Mr Sandeman seized his chance for the ultimate photo opportunity.
The Irish, he says, are big port fans with the inclement weather making hot port a favourite.
According to Mr Sandeman the best hot port should be two parts wine to one part water and contain a lemon slice stuffed with cloves. If you really want to impress, add a stick of cinnamon with which guests can swirl in sugar to taste. The hat and cape are optional.