Relief for those who keep star appeal

The news from this year's Michelin judges was greeted with a sense of relief from the current Michelin star holders.

Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud on Upper Merrion Street, Dublin was the first restaurant to win a star in 1989 and it added a second in 1996. "But every year it is a challenge," said restaurant manager Stéphane Robin. "The team changes every year and we have to try to achieve that same quality and style. We are always thrilled because it [the award] is for all the people who work here".

Chapter One was a newcomer to the Michelin club last year and co-owner Ross Lewis said getting a star and retaining it were "two very different things". He likened it to being capped for Ireland. "It's great to know that you operated at a level that merited the award," he said.

L'Ecrivain has held its Michelin star for six years and co-owner Derry Clarke said he was not becoming blase about it. "I can tell you I would be getting a lot more phone-calls if we hadn't kept it," he said.

Although Belfast restaurateur Michael Deane has held a Michelin star for more than a decade, this year's star is like a new award for him, he said.

He revamped his business and reopened in February with the new Deane's Restaurant. Deane's Brasserie, which held a Bib Gourmand, closed, and he hopes to soon reclaim that accolade for one of his other businesses.

The Bib Gourmand recognises good food at moderate prices, with three courses costing less than €40 or £28. This year's Bib Gourmand winners include six restaurants in Cork and Kerry, three in Dublin, and one each in Carlow, Wexford and Tipperary.

Sha Roe Bistro in Carlow and Dublin's Winding Stair are new additions to the group. "We are absolutely delighted," said Winding Stair manager Elaine Murphy. "It was completely unexpected. We just heard it on the radio."

This year's guide has awarded first-time stars to 15 restaurants in Britain and Ireland. Its editor, Derek Bulmer, said the latest food trends were "informal dining, greater use of locally grown produce and seasonality". Only three British restaurants have been awarded the ultimate accolade of three stars. They are the Waterside Inn and the Fat Duck, both in Berkshire, and Gordon Ramsay's Chelsea restaurant.