Even though the lead-in to the summer of 1999 hasn't exactly threatened us with heat stroke, I've found myself hunting about for lighter, fresher wines. Like dragging the linen sun dress out of its winter drawer and rushing out to buy new deck chairs, it's all part of the psychological conditioning needed to survive the infuriatingly temperate Irish climate. A no-lose situation. If the sun shines, we'll need refreshingly zesty whites. If it doesn't, they'll still be useful to help foster the illusion that it's summer.
The two grapes that deliver that extra tingle on the widest scale are Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, so let's take a look at each in turn. First Sauvignon. Have you noticed how it has begun to creep up on Chardonnay, hogging more space on wine shop shelves and restaurant wine lists? If the ABC brigade is finally pointing millions of people towards Anything But Chardonnay (and I believe it is), then Sauvignon Blanc is the first beneficiary. And there seem to be far more good bottles around than even just a couple of years ago.
These pale stars come at every price. While quality is up overall, the general improvement seems to involve a curious melding of regional distinctions, which is maybe a bit of a shame. Not so very long ago, Sauvignon Blanc from the upper Loire was much leaner and crisper than its New World cousins. Sauvignon from New Zealand, with Cloudy Bay as role model, was a headily aromatic wine laden with the powerful perfume of ripe gooseberries and asparagus. Other countries like South Africa and Chile produced styles with more tropical fruit flavours.
But, judging from the 1997s and 1998s tasted recently, it's becoming more and more difficult to tell them all apart. The Loire seems to be edging away from its cut-grass-and-cat's-pee austerity to a much riper approach. New Zealand has been knocked temporarily off course, with hot weather in 1998 producing some fruity wines. Other New World regions, meanwhile, are working hard to achieve more elegant Sauvignons - wines that are much closer to the traditional Loire style than their tropical-fruit-salad-type predecessors. Talk about confusing.
These may be the key regions, but there are others well capable of turning out a mean Sauvignon Blanc. Places like Rueda in northern Spain, or Friuli-Venezia-Giulia in north-east Italy, where the climate is cool enough to preserve the acidity that's so crucial if this wine is to be refreshing. Sauvignon Blanc may not be quite as versatile with food as Chardonnay, but you'll find it a superb performer with a fairly wide range of dishes, especially around this time of year. The crisper styles go well with white fish and brilliantly with goat's cheese. Riper, fruitier Sauvignons are a good choice with shellfish and better than anything with tomato salad. Pick a classy middle-of-the-road version to do honour to asparagus. And remember, for all-year-round enjoyment, New World Sauvignon Blanc is a natural with Thai food.
Now Riesling. Still mispronounced. (It's rees-ling, to rhyme with Sophie Rhys-Jones.) Still misunderstood. (It's dry and smart more often than it's naff and sweet.) But, little by little, its popularity is climbing, I'm delighted to report - for this frequently delicious, exhilarating wine is one of my absolute favourites.
"Rieslings are really beginning to move," says Joe Karwig, who imports an interesting range from his native Germany into Cork - - some of them destined for the farsighted SuperValu/Centra/Roches Stores group. This is heartening news because, although Germany undoubtedly produces the finest Riesling in the world, it has a long way to go to regain consumer confidence after churning out vast quantities of dilute rubbish for the best part of two decades. And the terminology of German wine remains hopelessly confusing. Still, once you've tasted one or two good German Rieslings, you'll be inspired to persevere. Don't forget to venture also into Alsace and Austria, the other European strongholds of this potentially magic, distinctively petrolly grape - the only disadvantage being that it's difficult to find many good examples at everyday prices.
If the Riesling Revival that wine experts have been predicting for what seems like half a lifetime is happening at last, the momentum is coming (once again) from the New World. Australia leads the way, having made what it traditionally calls "Rhine Riesling" for its home market for generations. And, although some other countries, notably New Zealand, are getting into the Riesling game, the Aussies still seem to me to offer a lot more excitement.
A recent tasting at the Australian Embassy revealed unimagined diversity. About 40 dry Rieslings from seven regions demonstrated how much bearing site and climate have on style - with the wines from the Clare Valley, the Eden Valley, the Adelaide Hills and Western Australia lighter, fresher, more elegant on the whole, than the fatter examples from McLaren Vale, the Barossa, Coonawarra and Victoria.
Of all the bottles you might uncork some summer's evening, Riesling is one that can be enjoyed all by itself - as an aperitif or later on, when you're in the mood for something light to sip. (Here, low-alcohol Germans really score.) But it can double as a food wine. Experiment with fish and shellfish, roast vegetables or Asian dishes. You shouldn't have to look too far to find a Riesling excuse.