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Finding good food in Co Tyrone is one of the most difficult challenges facing the food lover so all praise to the pioneering …

Finding good food in Co Tyrone is one of the most difficult challenges facing the food lover so all praise to the pioneering spirit of Martin Nelson, who has already created quite a stir with his imaginative, creative cooking in his new restaurant, 24 Loy Street, in Cookstown, Co Tyrone.

His food has many modern ingredients and gestures, but the thoughtfulness and imagination of his work is immediately apparent: confit of duck leg with braised butter beans; tomato risotto with Parmesan crackling; stuffed lamb cutlets with dauphinoise potatoes and a dried tomato and tarragon jus; duck breast with braised beetroot; apple parfait with raspberry puree and lime syrup; chocolate tart with pistachio ice cream and orange anglaise. This is clever cooking, and it deserves to find a wide audience.

24 Loy Street, Cookstown, Co Tyrone. Open 12.30pm-2.30pm, 7pm-9.30pm Wed- Sun