ON THE TRAIL OF THE GREAT COVER UP

LET no one complain over the months ahead that designers are ignoring the needs of the buying public

LET no one complain over the months ahead that designers are ignoring the needs of the buying public. Often enough there appears to be little overt association between the time of year and the fashion on offer; fragile chiffon dresses, for example, are now as likely to turn up in December as June. For once however, this season's climate and clothing are set to coincide - at least where coats are concerned.

What sets apart autumn/winter 1996 from so many of its predecessors has been the extraordinary sense of international consensus when it comes to main themes. One of the very first catwalk shows last March was staged by John Rocha in London and the coat shapes produced by this designer subsequently turned up again and again around the world's fashion capitals.

What matters most with the new coat is length. Sure, you can still find peacoats, car coats, sensible just on the knee or frisky, daringly short coats. But the one you want to buy goes all the way down at least to mid calf and possibly even beyond. Dare the 1970s be mentioned again? Because the idea here is a revival of that decade's maxi coat in all its fulsome and trailing glory.

So long (and you'll fare well) is the best choice by far but just as important is the total silhouette. Keep the shape tight and avoid any coat which is too enveloping of the body beneath. Shoulders are square and close and the favoured tendency is to follow the line of the figure with darting - at any rate down to the waist. Thereafter a certain degree of A line flaring is seen and many of the best coats come with a very high single vent at the back to give additional movement.

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Single or double breasted, with or without belt; all are possible provided the form remains fitted. Baggy and soft now looks distinctly dated and raglan shoulders are not successful with this style, which, by the way, looks terrific with the new season's trouser suits. Colours, as usual with coats, veer heavily toward the more sombre end of the spectrum, but there are lots of camel shades (retitled champagne or cafe au lait for this season) for women who want a gentler tone against their skin.

Coats are never cheap and for the majority of shoppers they will be one of the biggest investments over the next couple of months. That's why getting the shape right is so important. If you are going to buy a new coat this season, make sure it's a maxi.