WHAT with Ascot last week, and the Budweiser Irish, Derby next weekend - plus weddings taking, place across the country almost on a daily basis - this has to be the busiest time of year for milliners. There's hardly a woman who isn't adding a hat (or several) to her wardrobe right now, although such purchases; are rarely inspired by a desire to avoid the sun.
That practical purpose was the principal justification for hats until very recently - plus, of course, a wish to finish off any ensemble with a head turning accessory. It has only been since the 1950s that hats have ceased to be an everyday item of clothing; before the first half of this century no respectable woman would have considered leaving the house with her head uncovered. A hat was simply another garment and not something reserved for special occasions.
Whereas today, in a total reversal of what used to be the norm, the majority of women regard hats as being suitable only for major events such as weddings and prestigious race meetings. Because of contemporary fashion's emphasis on practicality and ease of movement, all in essential, articles - and that also includes gloves - are customarily jettisoned. Stripped back dressing cannot accommodate anything which does not have an immediately apparent function.
To wear a hat, therefore, is to indicate that the day is of some importance, Women mark the occasion apart by dressing differently from their regular style. The problem is that unfamiliarity can all too often lead to mistakes. The most common error, as many milliners will concur, relates to size. The majority of Irishwomen, it transpires, still think that where hats are concerned, big is best.
However, an enormous confection of straw, net and artificial flowers doesn't suit everyone. Such an arrangement will entirely overwhelm any woman with small features. Wide brims need plenty of height to achieve their full effect. Only if you possess a long neck and are sufficiently tall can you afford to carry off the kind of hat worn by Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady. In general, follow a rule that the slighter your build, the daintier should be the hat. The appeal of a close fitting cloche shouldn't be underestimated.
Don't imagine either that the hat in question must be an exact colour match with the rest of the outfit. This works fine, when black or white is the theme throughout, but for other shades an element of monotonous uniformity is liable to creep into the ensemble. Instead, consider the option, of a strongly contrasting tone for accessories. With yellow or any of the pastels, for example, navy blue provides a wonderful contrast for hat, shoes and bag. The best hats happily co ordinate with but don't overwhelm whatever else is being worn. A common mistake is to pick out a hat that is, so bold, it makes the rest of the outfit look nondescript. A well harmonised appearance, ought to be the sum of its whole, so never allow one element to dominate.
Finally, when poking for a hat, try to buy something that will have more than one chance to be seen. Anything too showy is going to leave an indelible impression on those who see it, giving a sense of deja vu to the hat whenever it's subsequently worn. Since they have become almost exclusively, luxury items, this seems rather unnecessarily extravagant. Better to opt for a style which has a relatively simple base and then its crown can be dressed with tulle, silk flowers or different coloured ribbon according to the occasion. After all, a hat should be, for life, not just for one special day.
NEWEST millinery outlet to open in Dublin is The Hat Studio on Clarendon Street. The shop itself may be recent, but the business is long established, because J.C. Brady has been producing hats for wholesale distribution throughout the country for the past 60 years. The third generation of his family in the firm, Jim Brady decided to start his own retail operation, which began trading only at the start of this month. However, thanks to the proliferation of social occasions at the moment as well as his own knowledge of the market, Mr Brady began with a suitable, head start. Latest fabric to be used in many of his hats seen here is cinamay, derived from the banana plant. Each strand is handwoven in the Philippines before being imported on a roll to this country where it is blocked into a hat shape and stiffened. The main advantage to cimanay, aside from a relatively modest price, is its weight. Extremely light, the fabric can be used for large shapes without putting too much pressure on the head. According to Jim Brady, cimanay represents the future of summer millinery.