Albarino If you haven't yet tried this Galician grape (which has been high fashion for the past few years in Spain), be sure to give it a whirl soon. It's wonderfully summery - smelling like a hedgerow full of flowers, tasting like fresh peaches with a big squeeze of lemon. Martin Codax Albarino, Galicia, 1998/9 (On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Gourmet Gallery, Rathmines; The Sky and the Ground, Wexford; Pat Egan, Liscannor; McCambridges, Galway; Karwigs, Carrigaline; also Oddbins outlets, usually about £8.99) is an excellent example, with lovely, lingering freshness.
Assyrtiko
"Top quality white grape variety grown increasingly widely in Greece," says The Oxford Companion to Wine about this native of the island of Santorini. Not much point looking for the word Assyrtiko on many labels. Gaia Thalassitis, Santorini, 1998 (Oddbins, £8.99) is the key, however, to a subtle, tempting wine made entirely from this grape (see Bottle of the Week).
Chenin Blanc
Whether you gravitate towards the great but neglected white wines of the Loire (such as Savennieres and Vouvray) or the richer, riper, guava-flavoured whites of South Africa, Chenin Blanc is capable of delivering seriously sensual wines. The difficulty, sometimes, is knowing when to drink them - or rather, with what. In most cases, a deckchair in the sun is one safe answer: fruity, flavoursome Chenin makes a perfect summer aperitif. Villiera Chenin Blanc, Paarl, 1999 (Deveneys, Rosemount and a few other outlets, usually about £7.50) - new to the Irish market - is a middle-of-the-road South African in style, but high up the quality ladder. That totally tropical taste . . . with real vitality and length. Great with mild curries and Thai food, too. Already, it's been snapped up by a heap of restaurants.
Pinot Grigio
After years of hugging a low profile, Pinot Grigio has been seized upon by adventurous producers in California and Oregon. You can guess the rest: it's well over half way to being hip. Some examples are a touch watery and anonymous, but San Giorgio Pinot Grigio delle Venezie 1998 (Searsons, Monkstown; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; DeVine Wine Shop, Castleknock; Ryan Wine, Navan; Vineyard, Galway; DeVine Wines, Letterkenny, £5.95-£6.50) from the Italian homeland is terrific at the price - crisp, fresh and gently aromatic. Low in alcohol, too: a definite plus if you're out in the sun.
Semillon
If Riesling was my alternative white frontrunner for the past couple of summers, thanks to some great discoveries in Australia, Semillon has become an obsession for the same reason. No region does this grape more stirring justice as a standalone varietal than the Hunter Valley near Sydney - but the good ones are serious wines for ageing and they don't come cheap. For a bit more frivolity but bags of satisfaction, try this Chilean instead. Las Casas del Toqui Semillon, Totihue-Cachapoal, 1998 (Dunnes Stores, £4.99) has juicy pineapple fruit character and all the zing you could wish for, at a bargain price.
Verdelho
Blame this one on the Aussies as well. The grape which, in Europe, is mainly associated with Madeira makes quite a full-bodied, lemony white table wine Down Under. Though nobody is claiming that it has the noble potential of Semillon or Riesling, it's a bit of a cult hit in restaurants; its generous, fruity nature suits the sunshine and fusion food. Be sure to drink as recent a vintage as possible: Verdelho doesn't hang about. Bleasdale Sandhill Verdelho, Langhorne Creek, 1999 (Oddbins, £8.99) is a memorable starting point. With the scent of elderflowers and pears and the tingling refreshment value of a good fruit salad, it's a summer treat.