IT has been rather a late developer, this summer of 96 still given to outbreaks of sullenness just when you had yourself convinced it had settled down and decided to be all civilised and sunny. Volatile weather hasn't been conducive to planning parties around the barbecue but, with only weeks to go before autumn drives up back indoors, we dare not procrastinate much longer. Round up your friends order your version of the fatted calf. Then all you need is a generous supply of gutsy wine.
I'm concentrating on red wine because, although there are adventurous and often delicious exceptions, the Barbecue As We Know It tends to be meat driven. The burning issues, once you've sorted out the question of allegiance to authentic but infuriating charcoal or cop-out gas, are what style of wine to choose and how much to spend. The second point is the most straightforward.
While there are no doubt some barbecuers out there determined to serve their best claret, I would venture to say, just this once, that I think lavish expenditure is crazy. As mentioned last week, sun and wind play havoc with the subtle perfumes and flavours of fine wine even without the pungent influence of smoke. That's one good reason why none of the wines listed below costs more than £7.
The second reason ties in with the style of wine that suits best. Char grilled food, with its strong, smoky, even burnt flavours cries out for wine with equally strong and complimentary flavours. Anything delicate or subtle in the drink line is as out of place at a barbecue as 10 denier stockings and a Chanel suit. The only exception is a white wine or rose, chosen to keep the guests happy in the early stages, while everybody is standing around willing the fire to light. Once the meat is ready, you're in the red zone.
And, happily for the house keeping budget, the reds that go best with food cooked out of doors are straightforward country wines the sort of thing that is everyday drinking in its region, of origin and blessedly inexpensive. Grilling and glugging in the garden these past few weeks I have been particularly impressed by, Spanish wines firstly because their oaky, smoky aromas and meaty flavours go especially well with barbecued food and secondly because the value they offer can be pretty hard to beat.
Other good sources of robust red wine include Portugal, the south of Italy and the south of France a wise choice if you want a slightly softer style which can be enjoyed both on its own, during the waiting game, and with the eventual plate of food. You might also consider Australian Shiraz or South African Pinotage two undeniably flavour some reds from countries where the barbie or braai is a way of life. If they are not on my list of favourites, it's simply because of personal taste they have a little more sweetness and less of the savoury element that I specially like with char grilled meats. It's also fair to say that good examples will often cost slightly more than £7, given the distance they have to travel.
One last suggestion. Whatever you decide on, buy plenty. For some reason maybe the fresh air, maybe the cooks seeming to need special fuel for their endeavours wine disappears at barbecues faster than at a children's party.
SPANISH
. Senorio de Nava Ribero del Duero Tinto Joven 1993 (Superquinn, £4.99).
It's the last thing you'd expect a wine at a rock bottom price from the region that is producing some of Spain's most expensive reds and you'd never expect such a bargain to taste half as good as this. Its strong flavours open out nicely in the air and there are baked, slightly burnt undertones. Perfect marriage material for the charcoal grill.
. Fuente del Ritmo Tempranillo 1994 (Quinnsworth, £4.99).
This wine has been praised more than once already in this column but it's such an outstanding bargain and such a natural partner for campfire style cooking, with its in built meatiness, that here we go again. Just try it.
Marques de Aragon Garnacha Puro 1995 (Searsons, £4.95). Another widely planted Spanish grape, another flavour, juicier and frutier than Tempranillo. A mouthful of sweet cherries and spice with a little savoury twist that takes you by surprise. Super value and a great all rounder, you can start sipping it on its own as the coals ignite.
. Torres Coronas 1993 (widely available, usually £5.99).
The wine equivalent of an old school friend who turns up regularly at your parties and is always welcome. Popular here for years and barbecued food brings out the best in this chunky, blackberry flavoured, smoky red.
. Las Campanas Navarra Cabernet Sauvignon 1990 (Dunnes Stores, £5.49).
Where Torres Coronas (above) is Tempranillo with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon added in, this one is pure Cabernet, the world's favourite red grape, which up and coming Spanish regions like Navarra are experimenting with more and more. Enough winespeak. The end result is a wine with a dash of Spanish character and very broad appeal at, the sort of irresistible price Spain is expert at delivering.
See Bottle of the week
OTHERS
. Alianca Bairrada Reserva 1992 (widely available, £4.39-£4.99).
Portugal is close to Spain in more ways than one, with a similar propensity to produce oaky, full"bodied, red wines. This one's as beefy as a T-bone steak and, come to think of it, won't cost you much more.
. Candido Salice Salentino Riserva 1992 (Superquinn, Findlaters, many other outlets, £5.99-£6.99).
There are other good examples of Salice Salentino the gutsy red from Apulia on the heel of Italy on the market but this one is a star in the under £7 league. Packed with flavour and personality.
. Cardillo Rosso di Sicilia 1995 (Marks & Spencer, £4.99).
We don't experiment with Italian wines nearly as much as we should, I believe, and when we do, we probably never venture as far as Sicily. There is some logic to this Sicilian wines can be dilute disappointments but here is a fruity, peppery red that will go down well with something like barbecued sausages or pork chops.
. Cotes du Roussillon 1994 (Vintry, Redmonds, Bennetts Howth, McCambridges Galway, Galvins Cork and other outlets, usually £5.99).
An impressive newcomer to the Irish market, likely to prove so popular that we'll see it more and more. The Roussillon cocktail of Rhone grapes, notably Syrah, produces a rich, spicy wine great value and, great with food but with soft fruit flavours that also make it sippable alone.
. Chateau Cap de Fouste Reserve Cotes du Roussillon 1993 (McCabes. £6.99).
Another of Jim McCabe's discoveries hence exclusive to his shops. Like the Roussillon above, this one is flexible fruity, easy drinking with typical, southern, French spice but with enough structure, through oak ageing, to make it shine with food.