Cooked Ham

Fergal’s Simply Ham

€3 for 130g, €23.07 per kg

We don’t know who Fergal is but we were fairly impressed by his ham. The ingredient list is commendably simple: pork, sea salt, natural flavouring and demerara sugar. There is no added water, which made this look a whole lot less sweaty. We got five very thick slices with a nice meaty texture. It is not too salty and quite cheap. We turned up a clue to who Fergal is: he is part of the Kerry Group which, we suspect, means he’s an entirely fictitious creation of a huge company, which was disappointing.

Verdict:Good man Fergal ****

Tesco Value Cooked Ham
98 cent for 125g, €7.60 per kg

How should we put this? Oh, yes, revolting. We would have to fundamentally disagree with Tesco’s claim that it is “perfect in sandwiches and salads” – it is not, not by a long shot. It is made with just 76 per cent pork and each of the miserable slices was grim and greasy and made from “reformed ham”. Reformed does not mean it is from a pig which has seen the error of its ways, but that it is cobbled together from random bits of meat and compressed to make it look palatable, which, incidentally it does not. The texture was rubbery and slimy and, it is completely devoid of taste.

Verdict:Vile *

Denny Eat Healthy Crumbed Ham
€2.99 for 120g, €24.91 per kg

Eat what now? Healthy? Really, Mr Denny? It’s processed ham we’re talking about, not some class of tofu burger, right? The healthy claim emblazoned on the front of the packaging can be made because this ham has reduced levels of salt, is low fat – as is much ham – and a source of protein, again a common trait found in ham. Leaving aside the healthiness or otherwise, it actually tastes very nice, is not at all greasy and is pleasingly textured. Available in retailers big and small.

Verdict:Fine ***

Marks & Spencer Wiltshire Ham
€4.49 for 120g, €37.41 per kg

After all that Tesco Value unpleasantness, we treated ourselves to this, which is a world apart in terms of taste, texture, provenance and, sadly, price.

There is no added water and the meat has actually been cut in slices from a happy (well, happier) pig’s leg as opposed to made up of off-cuts. The meat is dry – and we mean that in the best possible way – and bursting with flavours. There is a lot of fat in each slice – both around the edges and in the centre, something which reflects its authentic nature. At more than €1.15 per slice it will be beyond the reach of many pockets.

Verdict:Dear but excellent *****

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