Chile with a difference

Tour the regions, try the grapes..

Tour the regions, try the grapes . . . here are a few Chilean wines, tasted in the last few weeks, that stand out from the crowd:

White

Canepa Winemakers Selection Oak-Aged Semillon, Rapel Valley, 1997 (many SuperValus/Centras, Roches Stores, O'Briens Fine Wines, Molloys, Ivans Limerick, McCambridges Galway, Ardkeen Superstores Waterford, Pettits in south-east, O'Donovans Cork and many other independent off-licences, usually £7.99). Not unduly oaky, thank goodness - just beautifully smooth and creamy, with citrus freshness running all the way through. A super change from you know what.

Red

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Santa Ines Carmenere, Maipo, 1997 (Molloys Liquor Stores, £5.99; seven for price of six offer until end October). Blind tasting tip from the experts: Carmenere will make you think of red and green peppers and soy sauce. Sometimes, to me, it's over-lush and earthy, but this one is like an attractively gutsy southern French red. What value!

Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon, El Ceibo Estate, Aconcagua Valley, 1998 (very widely available, usually about £6.50). Benchmark Chilean Cab that's not boring - and the price is right. See Bottle of the Week.

Vina Gracia Pinot Noir, Bio-Bio Valley, 1997 (Molloys Liquor Stores, DeVine Wine Shop Castleknock, Martins Fairview, Jus de Vine Portmarnock, Higgins Clonskeagh, McCabes Merrion, Mill Maynooth, O'Keeffes Kilkenny, Cape Wexford, Wine World Dungarvan, Macs Limerick, Lonergans Tipperary, Dailys Cork, O'Donovans Cork, Feeneys Galway, usually £7.99). I really enjoyed this budget Pinot Noir - jammy fruit with a slightly vegetal edge, great acidity and a gently spicy finish.

MontGras Merlot Reserva, Colchagua Valley, 1997 (O'Briens Fine Wines, Quinns Drumcondra, Bennetts Howth, McHughs Kilbarrack, Benson Bar & Liquor Store Drogheda, SuperValu Deansgrange, Dingle (Garveys), Kilkenny (Caulfields), usually £9.99). A luscious one, with concentrated berry and chocolate flavours and the toasty coconut overlay of American oak lingering in an assertive finish. Santa Rita Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon Special Reserve, Maipo Valley, 1997 (Vintry Rathgar, Redmonds Ranelagh, McCabes Merrion, Superquinn Blackrock, Mill Maynooth, Vineyard Galway, Wine Vault Portlaoise and other outlets, usually about £10.50). Part with a tenner for a Cabernet which really does show how classy Chile can be. Bordeaux reminders of cedar and liquorice on the nose, but the smooth, ripe, minty fruit and long coffee finish are pure southern hemisphere sun.