It's so long since I last encountered Santa Isabel Malbec, 1997 (Dunnes Stores, £4.99), I'd forgotten what a great wine this is for everyday drinking. For, while it's easy to get into - soft and round, with ripe, blackberryish fruit - it's a little lighter and more reticent in style than some of its outspoken cousins. That means you're unlikely to tire of it. I know, I tried. For anybody who's feeling swanky, Dunnes also stocks Santa Isabel Malbec Reserve 1996 - but the humble cheapie tastes as good as many a £6.99 wine to me.