DLC Original Grenache Vieilles Vignes 1996 (outlets above, usually £5.29-£5.49) flies the flag for juicy, young, southern-French Grenache - and comes, incidentally, in an exceptionally handsome bottle, modelled on an 18th-century Languedocian original discovered in the estate cellars. With 1970s food making a comeback, a bottle-lamp revival can't be far away . . .