TEN years on, after one of the most appalling famines of recent history, reawakening. Just a decade ago, more than a million people died of starvation, and many more as a result of the civil war. Although. drought was the original problem, the famine was aggravated by the Marxist dictator Mengistu who prevented food supplies - from within Ethiopia and from outside - reaching famine areas in the north. His aim was to force the independence-hungry people of Eritrea into submission.
The people of Eritrea finally won their independence, but not from Mengistu. He was ultimately overthrown in 1991 after 17 years of civil war, and one of the first actions of the newly appointed transitional government was to hold a referendum and grant Eritrean independence in 1992.
Last summer, the same transitional government was elected for a five-year term in the first democratic elections held in Ethiopia. With peace restored and Mengistu gone, food production and supplies gradually came back under control, although there is still an overall food deficit.
Obviously many social, political and economic difficulties remain, and Ethiopia is still one of the world's poorest nations. But after more than 40 years of feudal rule under the Emperor Haile Selassie, followed by 10 more under a brutal socialist dictator, Ethiopia is at last on the brink of a new democratic era.
One of the first things to come back to life after Mengistu was deposed was the tourist industry. Gradually the troupes of aid workers and journalists - for so long the only visitors - are being joined by other travellers. Families have returned from exile, not to live yet, but for a few weeks at least.
"Come to Ethiopia and you'll feel seven years younger" goes the tourist slogan. According to the Ethiopian calendar it's now 1989 and New Year's Day this year was September 12th. Ethiopia still follows the Julian calendar, which is currently almost eight years (seven years and eight months) behind our Gregorian calender. And as the hours of the day are counted from daybreak, local time is always several hours ahead .
The fact that Ethiopia was once an ancient and powerful civilisation becomes increasingly obvious as you travel - making recent history even more tragic. Most of the best known sites are on the so-called "Northern circuit" which includes Aksum, Lalibella, Gonder, the island monasteries of Lake Tana.and the Blue Nile Falls. At Aksum stand the massive 4th-century stone obelisks, and a church said to contain the Ark of the Covenant in Lalibella the 13th-century red-rock-hewn churches; in Gonder the 17th-century castles; on Lake Tana ancient island monasteries and the massive Blue Nile Falls.
To describe the main attractions in any detail is beyond the scope of this article but taking Aksum and Lalibella as examples will give some idea of what's in store.
BEYOND that, a guide book is suggested - Phillip Briggs's Ethiopia is the most up to date. As in most developing countries, it is important to realise that where ever you go, you are likely to be surrounded by young boys asking for money, and older ones offering to be your guide.
Usually three or four will offer, and refusals are ignored. They will tell heartbreaking stories of their lives and look devastated unless you tip each one at the end.
The town of Aksum is small and dusty, dominated by two huge stone obelisks, known as stelae. Erected as symbols of power by various kings, the tallest still standing is that of King Ezana, the Aksumite king who introduced Christianity in the middle of the 4th century. Ezana's stelae is 23 metres high, but on the ground nearby lies another hugh stelae which gives a clearer idea of the weight and size of these objects. The very tallest stelae from Aksum, measuring 33 metres, currently stands outside the Food and Agricultural Organisation HQ in Rome - a trophy from the Italian invasions of the 1930s and 1940s.
Beyond the main square there are other ancient ruins, one being the palace of the Queen of Sheba. The guide there asked if I knew the famous skinny British pop star, very well known but he couldn't remember his name. I suggested a few but he dismissed them all. Finally I said "Bob Geldof?" Yes, it was him. He had shown him around Aksum. He was a wonderful man, I agreed, but had to point out that he was, in fact, Irish.
From Aksum to Lalibella is less than an hour's flight, but it's another era. Auxum was the great trading capital of Ethiopia from the 1st to the 7th centuries, and despite the conversion of King Ezana, it has a distinctly pagan feel. Lalibella is where Christianity really took off. At the centre of the town are 11 monolothie churches, carved out of the red stone ground, allegedly by the hands of angels.
The town itself is high up in the mountains, and often cut off during the rainy season. The village itself is small and pretty and if you have the time it's worth staying an extra day and hiring a mule to visit the churches outside town.
For anyone staying less than 19 days the best way to get around is by plane. Internal flights are relatively cheap the average being about $50. The local unit of currency is the birr (one being equal to about 15p) but dollars or sterling are the most readily accepted means of payment. Ethiopian Airlines is the international and domestic carrier and covers almost all of the country.
Although there are a few larger planes on the domestic routes, eight-seater Twin Otters are the norm. And because seating is limited, it makes sense to book flights well in advance via a tour operator. Alternatively, you can fly direct to Add is Ababa and make travel arrangements from there yourself via the National Tourist Organisation (NTO). This can entail a few days waiting for flights however, so allow accordingly.
NTO provides what it describes as a guide, but in fact turns out to be a driver. This is very useful in places such as Lalibella where the airstrip is a good distance from the village, but unnecessary in Aksum, for example. Local guides have to be paid separately.
Faranji is Ethiopian for foreigners and everything is more for faranji particularly accommodation. Mindful of the fact that Ethiopia is a developing country, this is reasonable up to a point but it can occasionally get out of hand. Out on the streets the little boys just shout for the money. In Addis Ababa the chorus is, "You, you, you. You money, you". Up in the north it's the Italian-influenced, "Bambini, bambini, give money bambini". Down south it's "Cuba, cuba, cuba" apparently after the Cubans who worked there under Mengistu.
They are tough kids, and they laugh at the confusion, guilt and consternation they can cause. One of their favourite games is to ride bicycles very fast at the jaraqi. pulling to one side only at the very last second. And as the poor victim goes diving for cover they stop to laugh uproariously, calling out to others on the street to look. It's an awkward moment but you have to laugh too. Although there is poverty to be seen in Ethiopia, there is very little dejection.