White
Knappstein Clare Valley Hand-picked Ries- ling 1999 (selected Dunnes Stores outlets, £10.29). The price has taken a nasty jump, but this is still a good buy - a refined, limefresh young Riesling that will keep for years, developing petrolly richness.
Devil's Lair Chardonnay, Margaret River, 1998 (Oddbins, £17.99). Western Australia is the place for seriously good Chardonnays that put the sweet, oaky Dolly Parton styles to shame. Rich and creamy but subtle, this oozes refinement.
Red
Chateau Tahbilk Shiraz, Victoria 1997 (selected Superquinns; Sweeney's, Dorset St; Mortons, Ranelagh; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Mill, Maynooth; O'Donovans, Cork, usually £9.99). For an Australian classic crafted with loving care, this former Bottle of the Week still offers great value. Victoria delivers Shiraz with a difference - light and lively, not turbo-charged. Again, this wine will keep for quite a few years.
Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley 1998 (Mitchell's, Kildare St and Glasthule; Cheers-Gibney's, Malahide; Kelly's, Artane; Redmond's, Ranelagh; McCabe's, Blackrock and Foxrock; Vineyard, Galway; Octavius, Sligo and some other outlets, £13.99-14.50). Oz Pinot is much more in-your-face than Burgundy, but I love this one from James Halliday in the Yarra. Plenty of acidity balances the intense fruit and spicy oak.
Greg Norman Estates Coonawarra Cabernet- Merlot 1998 (Berry's, Harry St; Vintry, Rathgar; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Deveney's, Dundrum; McCabe's, Blackrock & Foxrock; Bourke's, Cabinteely; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, £14.59-14.99). Yes, the golfer. Another victory! See Bottle of the Week.
St Hallett Old Block Shiraz, Barossa, 1996 (selected Dunnes Stores outlets, £16.99). A superb example of the full-blooded Barossa style in a terrific vintage. Hints of eucalyptus, liquorice and chocolate emerge from a smooth base of dark, ripe berries. You'll want to keep sipping . . .
Coriole Mary Kathleen, McLaren Vale 1996 (Wines Direct, £17.85 if you buy a case, which may be mixed). Coriole was one of the most impressive producers I came across earlier this year in McLaren Vale, so it's good to see its wares have just arrived. From a region whose reds can be OTT, this Bordeaux blend is thrilling - intense yet restrained, savoury rather than sweet, with all the length you'd expect at the price.