A confection of chefs gathers as new culinary contest launched

There were chefs in the lobby and chefs on the stairs, hot and cold running chefs in the corridors, and cocky chefs with more…

There were chefs in the lobby and chefs on the stairs, hot and cold running chefs in the corridors, and cocky chefs with more medals on their starched chests than a celebrated general.

For the past two days, Jurys Hotel in Waterford was invaded by a confection of chefs, as over 200 of them sliced, stewed and simmered for honours in the first major culinary contest held in the south-east.

The inaugural "Catering South East" exhibition and "Foodfest '97" competitions also drew a rapt audience of aspiring and experienced cooks. Like snooker fans absorbed in a world-class play-off, they watched for hours as the contestants sweated over a row of hot stoves.

Closed-circuit video cameras brought close-ups as the concoctions took shape against the clock, were surveyed and then solemnly tasted by a team of judges from the Panel of Chefs of Ireland.

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The prizes most coveted by the successful were not so much the gold medals and certificates of merit, but the chances of a place on the various Irish teams to compete in important international culinary contests in London, France, Germany and elsewhere.

The event was a significant breakthrough for the south-east branch of the Panel of Chefs. In existence for just two years, the branch has been working hard towards this elevation of the region's chefs into the national and international arenas of contest for the recognised crowns of professional merit.

"We want to get this area on the map," said organising committee member Mr James Murray, of the Dinnri in Carlow - last year's Pub of the Year.

Branch chairman and judge, Mr Brendan Brophy, of the Golden Dragon, Gorey, Co Wexford, watched benignly as some of the junior contestants struggled to complete their creations against the stopwatch.

Seeking signs of inspired new talent, the Irish team manager, Chef John Kelly of the Ardilaun House Hotel, Galway, conceded that he had seen some "interesting" work. "It is a lot of pressure, but they love the buzz and the hype," he commented.

Junior contestant Paul Reid, from the kitchens of Cahir House in Tipperary, admitted frankly, after completing his dish of poached cod stuffed with a salmon mousse: "It was nerve-racking."

Paul (22), was Student of the Year in his professional cookery course at Waterford Institute of Technology. His classmate and colleague, Elaine Bartley (21), originally from Piltown, Co Kilkenny, who garnished her fish dish with a deep-fried potato "basket" and stir-fried vegetables, said the ordeal of the contest gave invaluable experience.

The cooked dish contests were judged by the panel on stringent criteria of hygiene, presentation and taste. The biggest challenge was probably the "Mystery Basket" contest, in which the competing chefs each got a similar basket of mixed ingredients and were required to produce from these, in 90 minutes, a two-course meal for two.

On display in another room of the hotel were some of the cold, pre-prepared chef's inventions. Some of those in the category "Senior works in butter and fat" appeared to be designed as much for an art gallery as a restaurant.

Yvonne King, a pastry chef in the Gleneagle Hotel, Killarney, Co Kerry, won awards for her intricate elephant and horse figures, finely sculpted in the special-grade catering butter used for such work.

The gold medal winner here, and star of the entire exhibition, was the elegant and life-like representation of a macaw on a branch, by John Brown of the Berkeley Court.

In conjunction with the competitions, a range of major food companies and suppliers to the catering industry showed their varied products.

From now on, "Catering South East" will be biennial, marking the industry's rapid growth in the region.