Kaftans in satins and silk, monogrammed Louis Vuitton luggage, and a pair of Manolo Blahnik snakeskin evening slippers, are just some of the lots coming up for sale in the collection of André Leon Talley, the pioneering Vogue editor who died on January 19th, 2022.
“A pharaoh of fabulosity,” is how one staffer at Vogue dubbed the larger-than-life figure, who was the first person of colour to reach the highest ranks in Vogue.
Now, the fashion icon’s worldly possessions have gone up for sale in a series of online auctions through Christie’s in January. Highlights of this collection will be sold in a live sale to be held in New York this Wednesday, February 15th.
The prince of excess who famously had 50 pieces of unused Vuitton luggage residing at his second home in North Carolina, stood at a commanding 6ft 7in tall. He was raised by his grandmother, who worked as a maid during the Jim Crow era of racial segregation, and was quoted as saying he could barely afford food when he began his life as a journalist. For years he broke the mould as the only African-American in the front row at runway shows, and it is alleged that he was the only person who could tell Vogue editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, that she looked bad in a dress.
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[ André Leon Talley: How Anna Wintour threw her right-hand man ‘under the bus’Opens in new window ]
As the most powerful black man in fashion, he spent four decades at the publishing house Condé Nast writing watershed features, including Michelle Obama’s interview with Vogue after she became first lady, along with his own memoir, The Chiffon Trenches. But in this memoir, he did not hold back on his critique of American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, who he described as being not capable of “simple human kindness”, and how the terms of working with Wintour were that food is not an essential part of lunch, and a meeting should not last longer than eight minutes.
The pair fell out in 2018, after Talley was dropped from covering the Met Gala red carpet interviews, which he compared to being “just thrown under a bus”. But Wintour, who had once arranged an interest free loan from the publishing house so Talley could buy his grandmother’s house, had clearly forgiven him with her words on his passing: “He was magnificent and erudite and wickedly funny – mercurial, too. Like many decades-long relationships, there were complicated moments, but all I want to remember today, all I care about, is the brilliant and compassionate man who was a generous and loving friend.”
Proceeds from the sale, which is expected to achieve more than $1 million (€932,810) reflect his faith and generosity, and will be divided between the he Abyssinian Baptist church in New York, and Mount Sinai Missionary Baptist church in his hometown of Durham, North Carolina.
Much of Talley’s collection underscores the important relationships he shared with many of fashion’s luminaries. In his memoir, he describes his friendship with the late Karl Lagerfeld – a close ally for four decades who showered him with sumptuous gifts – including $50,000 for his 50th birthday and Fabergé jewellery. As a Francophile and fluent French speaker, Talley and Lagerfeld bonded over a mutual love of French history, literature and fashion with Talley describing Lagerfeld as the brother he wished he had had.
A signature piece, his navy silk faille tiered cape with a standing collar by Chanel ($3,000-$5,000), marks his friendship with Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel, who Anna Wintour once described as “the soul of fashion”.
Three personal sketches by Lagerfeld form part of the sale, further cementing the friendship the pair once had. Lot 44 is a pastel by Lagerfeld of Talley inscribed “La Tsarina on her way back to the Winterpalace/Love Karl” ($800-$1,200). Considering Sotheby’s results of Lagerfeld’s estate in 2021 achieved four times the total higher estimate – with a final result of €18.2 million against €4.6 million – the Lagerfeld drawings may well achieve more.
Another important figure in Talley’s life was Diane Von Furstenberg, who accompanied him to Barack Obama’s inauguration. The Belgian designer was one of his closest confidants, and over the course of 45 years they bonded both as friends and collaborators, with Von Furstenberg designing custom kaftans for Talley. Four of these are in an online sale – closing February 16th – and range from $500 to $2,000.
Top lots in the live sale include an acrylic on canvas, Candy Box (True Love), which was a gift by artist Andy Warhol to Talley. Listed at $150,000-$200,000, the silkscreen, along with Warhol’s depiction of Talley’s mentor and friend depicted in Diana Vreeland Rampant ($30,000-$50,000), may well achieve more, given their provenance.
While Talley will be remembered for his opulence, extravagance and monogrammed luggage, he will also be defined by his support of young designers, most notably LaQuan Smith, who paid tribute to his mentor by dedicating his runway show to the fashion trailblazer for New York Fashion Week 2022. christies.com
