FLORENCE: Cradle of the Renaissance and home to some of the world's greatest art, Florence remains one the biggest draws in tourism, writes Orla Neligan
YOU HAVE TO hand it to the Florentines: living in Rome's slipstream is no mean feat. But facing off against Italy's capital is all in a day's work. Italy contains 60 per cent of the world's Renaissance art, more than half of which belongs to Florence, and with Giotto, Michelangelo, Leonardo and Dante among its sons, the Tuscan capital has earned its status as the cradle of the Renaissance and a key city on anybody's cultural itinerary.
With this glory comes a constant flow of tourists - six million a year - which means you will face snaking queues at many of the attractions, even off season. (You will also have to keep putting your hand in your pocket for just about anything worth seeing, although some would argue that that's a small price to pay for feasting on world-class art.)
It could take a lifetime to appreciate all of the art that Florence has to offer. A good way to begin to get a taste of it is by strolling through the city - a work of art in itself. Start at Piazza del Duomo, home to the mammoth cathedral that dominates the city.
North of the cathedral are the Capelle Medicee, or Medici Chapels, at the Basilica di San Lorenzo, where the most prominent members of the Medici family are buried in spectacular tombs, two of which were designed by Michelangelo.
A few minutes' due north is Piazza della SS Annunziata, Brunelleschi's ornate SS Annunziata church and the Accademia Gallery, where the quintessential man, Michelangelo's David, is on show.
Head towards the river and you'll come across Piazza della Signoria, one of the Florence's prettiest and busiest squares and the hub of the city's administrative activity. Flanked by Palazzo Vecchio (the town hall) and some of the city's finest statues, including Giambologna's Rape of the Sabine Women, a copy of David and Ammannati's Neptune fountain, it is best appreciated while sipping a hot chocolate on the terrace of the legendary Rivoire cafe, a former chocolate factory.
You'll have to get off your chair to find Michelangelo's etching of a man's face in the rough walls of Palazzo Vecchio (nearest the Uffizi), said to have been done on the dare that he couldn't chisel behind his back. Some may even recognise it as the scene of the murder that caused A Room with a View's Lucy Honeychurch to swoon.
Around the corner is the fabled Uffizi Gallery and, beyond, the River Arno and Ponte Vecchio - a trading place for the city's butchers until Ferdinando I de' Medici spotted them flinging their offcuts into the Arno and ordered their malodorous presence to be replaced by the glittering wares of the city's silver- and goldsmiths - which are there to this day.
The south of the city, known as Oltrarno - meaning "beyond the river" - is a lung to the north's concentrated treasures, dotted with gardens, artisans and Bohemian bonhomie.
When you've reached saturation point, head for the Boboli Garden, hit Ringo's bar, on Borgo San Jacopo, for what some consider the best burger in Europe, or amble up the hill behind Piazza Poggi to relive a Merchant Ivory moment on Piazzale Michelangelo (if Florence has beaten you, catch the number 13 bus from Santa Maria Novella station or, for about €10, a cab).
Here on the city's balcony, the glory of Florence stretches out before you while you stand, elbow to elbow, in the crush of one of the world's greatest gatherings of tourists.
A small price to pay for a soaring city view? Well, it is free - one thing they don't charge you for.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
5 places to stay
1. Hotel Monna Lisa. Borgo Pinti 27, 00-39-055-2479751, www.monnalisa.it. If you're looking for old-world charm, this former convent an olive's throw from the Duomo has it in spades. The 45 rooms are split between a 14th-century palazzo and a more recent addition, with many overlooking a pretty courtyard garden brimming with roses and lime and olive trees.
2. Hotel La Scaletta. Via Guicciardini 13, 00-39-055- 283028, www.hotellascaletta. it. This formerly down-at-heel building near Palazzo Pitti was brought back to life in 2005. Now a favourite with visitors who come for the modest rates and panoramic vistas of the Boboli Garden.
3. Hotel Savoy. Piazza della Repubblica 7, 00-39-055- 27351, www.hotelsavoy.it. With one of the best locations in the city, overlooking the caffè-filled Piazza della Repubblica, Hotel Savoy is a welcome respite after a day on the pavements. Service is second to none, rooms are a paean to contemporary good taste and the parasol-shaded terrace is the perfect spot for watching the world go by.
4. Continentale. Vicolo dell'Oro 6r, 00-39-055-27262, www.lungarnohotels.com. Under the Ferragamo design umbrella, the Continentale has all the hallmarks of the family's statement-making style, including a glass lift with a sofa, which whisks you to the plush rooms, some of which have views of the Arno.
5. Hotel Cellai. 14 Via 27 Aprile, 00-39-055-489291, www.hotelcellai.it. In contrast to the contemporary leanings (and prices) of the Continentale, Hotel Cellai is an ode to A Room with a View-style pensiones, with tasteful, comfy rooms and great views.
5 places to eat
1. La Giostra. 12r Borgo Pinti. 00-39-055-241341, www.ristorantelagiostra.com.
The walls of this continually packed restaurant are adorned with photographs of celebs noshing on creamy risottos, pastas and hunks of melt-in-your mouth meat. Be judicious with the complimentary starters or you won't be able to savour your mains: the portions are huge.
2. Il Troia. Via del Porcellana 25r, 00-39-055-212691.
Home to the quintessential Florentine steak, Il Troia (aka Trattoria Sostanza) has been a meat-lover's haven since its inception, in 1869, drawing crowds to its long wooden tables to sink their teeth into the bistecca alla fiorentina (T-bone porterhouse).
3. Cibréo. Via a del Verrocchio 8r, 00-39-055-2341100, www.cibreo.com.
Possibly the city's finest restaurant. An unpretentious dining room and a no-menu policy is at first a bit daunting, but when a charismatic waiter sits at your table and goes through a menu of hearty Tuscan dishes that include classics such as ricotta, potato and parmesan souffle, shark cutlet in a spicy tomato sauce and a fabled flourless chocolate cake, you'll be drooling into your antipasti before you can say primi.
4. Yellow Bar. Via del Proconsolo 39, 00-39-055- 211766.
For a fast and informal Italian dining experience, hit this bar, where you can chow down on a delicious pizza and glass of wine for €10.
5. Osteria Bella Donna. Via delle Bella Donna 16r, 00-39-055-2382609.
Grab a stool for some farmhouse fare. For a feast of regional specialities, go for the ribollita (a hearty bread-and- greens soup), pork meatballs with marinated potatoes and, room permitting, panna cotta with chocolate sauce.
5 places to go
1. Duomo, Piazza del Duomo, 00-39-055-2302885, www.duomofirenze.it. The city's most iconic landmark, dominating the skyline, took 170 years to build. Climb the 463 steps to the top for a great view or duck below the cathedral's mosaic floor to see Santa Reparta, the city's original church, and ruins of Roman houses and shops.
2. David. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 60, 00-39-055- 2388612, www.polomuseale. firenze.it/ accademia. Perhaps the world's most famous sculpture - not to be mistaken for the copies in Piazza Signoria and Piazzale Michelangelo. Carved from a five-metre slab of marble, Michelangelo's creation stands proud despite having been through the wars, his calm expression and barely visible sling emphasising intellect over brute force in his battle with Goliath. Advance booking at www.firenzemusei.it.
4. Boboli Garden and Palazzo Pitti. Piazza dei Pitti 1, 00-39-055-2654321/00-39-055 -2388786, www.palazzopitti.it, www.firenzemusei.it/boboli.
After soaking up some Titian, Rubens and Raphael in the Pitti Palace, lose yourself in the shady avenues, grottoes and tree-lined paths of the beautiful Tuscan Boboli Garden.
4. Ferragamo Museum. Via dei Tornabuoni 16r, 00-39-055-292123, www.salvatoreferragamo.it. Shoe fetishists can drool over Salvatore Ferragamo's delicate hand-crafted shoes in glass cases, chosen from his 10,000-pair collection. Includes designs for Hollywood lovelies Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn.
5. Vasari Corridor Uffizi Gallery. Piazzale degli Uffizi 6, 00-39-055-2388651, www.uffizifirenze.it. One of the world's most revered museums, housing the Medici art collection, the Uffizi was built by Vasari in the 16th century, along with the Vasari Corridor, a private walkway used by the Medici family to avoid the public. Those with limited time should factor in a visit to rooms 7 to 18, which include Botticelli's Primavera and Birth of Venus and da Vinci's Annunciation. Booking well in advance for both (entry to the Vasari Corridor is through advance booking only) is highly recommended, at www.firenzemusei.it.
Hot spots
Join the well-heeled crowd for a spritz (Aperol and prosecco) at La Dolce Vita (Piazza Carmine, 00-39-055- 284595, www.dolcevita florence.com). For a spit-and-sawdust experience, squeeze into the tiny JJ Cathedral bar (Piazza del Duomo, www.jjcathedral.com).
Shopping
For serious plastic-wielding, hit Via dei Tornabuoni, home to Prada, Armani, Gucci and Ferragamo. If your budget is more high street, head for Via Calzaiuoli, also home to the popular department store Coin. To haggle, hit San Lorenzo market. Among the tacky aprons and boxers emblazoned with David's strategically placed crown jewels, you'll find luxury leather at bargain prices. Florentine retailers keep tight to the tradition of closing for lunch, so expect to window-shop between 1.30pm and 3.30pm.
Go there
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from Dublin to Pisa, about 70 minutes from Florence by Terravision coach (www.terravision.eu).