GO NEW ZEALAND:Act like the average Kiwi who earns around €15,700 a year and you can enjoy the country and the competition at a reasonable cost, writes JAMIE BALL
‘THE SHAKY Isles” as so christened by 19th century Australians, is up, open and gagging for business. New Zealand’s quake-wake city of Christchurch, punch-drunk and on the ropes, may be the epicentre of avoidance, but every other acre in the country remains not only unaffected, but in earnest preparation for the largest sporting event ever to come to these cerulean shores.
It’s claimed that rugby is the religion of New Zealand in that rather than go to church once a week, Kiwis go to the rugby grounds instead, where they sit placidly without ever opening their mouths – then spend the next six days discussing what went on. It is, indeed, the only country on Earth where, for the price of a ticket, you can not only watch an All Black test but even manage to hear the players talking to one another on the pitch.
If you’re coming to New Zealand for the Rugby World Cup this September be on guard for an opportunistic minority – standing out from an overwhelmingly decent, honest and welcoming majority – who intend to use the six-week long competition as a cut-throat cash cow to finance the new Holden. Some vultures are beginning to circle, but keep your eyes to the ground and the multiple joys and wonders of Godzone will warm your heart without freezing your wallet.
Think of it this way: from the minute you touch down on the tarmac, consider yourself an honouree, if temporary, New Zealander. Leave all notions of euros and exchange rates on the plane behind you. You now, like the average Kiwi who earns less than NZD$30,000 (€15,700) a year, make your meagre earnings do “the hard yakka” while you enjoy the country.
Aotearoa at large
In the months before leaving, buy a Lonely Planet or Rough Guide book and go through it – the savings should come back to you tenfold. Also check your mobile’s roaming status, as public payphones are insanely expensive. Bring your mobile regardless, for a pre-pay SIM card from any Telecom or Vodafone store can be got for NZD$30 (€15.70).
September/October is spring time and just like Ireland, the weather then is very changeable. Three still days of sun-blessed bliss can turn to custard within minutes. Pack prepared: everything from your scaly Speedos to your Aran sweater.
New Zealand has one of the highest standards of living in the world because most Kiwis can avail of her charms, and not just the wealthy. So do as the Romans do. Walk off the street into any council gym (around NZD$10/€5.25) or swimming pool (NZD$5/€2.60), many of which are 50 metres in length, with jacuzzi and sauna thrown into the bargain. An 18-hole round of golf can be had for NZD$20–$25 (€10.50–€13), while hire of clubs is from NZD$20 (€10.50) per set.
The ski season usually winds up at some point between late September and late October and a full day’s skiing, with hire of all gear, can be had for NZD$150 (€78.50) – sometimes less.
There are at least six days between each of Ireland’s pool games so you’d be mental to not try one multi-day walk, especially any of the nine “greats walks”. There is nothing to rival them on this planet. Arrive prepared but book the huts online ASAP or you will lose out (up to NZD$51 (€26.75) per night per person).
Mountain biking, kayaking and fishing can also offer notable, hassle-free value among the more adrenaline-hyped, over-priced activities. (Did someone mention Queenstown?)
Hanging about town the afternoon of an evening kick-off? Get a rounded, rather than oval, view of this fair young land and indulge in the public museums (mostly free entry) scattered about the principle cities, or the abundance of excellent regional museums and galleries in lesser towns.
On evenings off, the flicks can be had for NZD$13–$15 (€6.80–€7.85) or else present some identification at the local DVD store and walk home with some long-awaited gems for as little as NZD$1 (€.50) per week.
If you’re shopping after All Black or rugby merchandise, steer clear of those inner city, tourist-kitsch retailers and scout out suburban outlets instead – the savings are substantial.
Match tickets
As Dell Boy used to roar: “Don’t be a plonker all your life Rodney.” If you’re old enough to travel 12,000 miles to a sports tournament then you should be mature enough not to get stung over tickets.
I’d avoid any online tickets unless bought directly from the official RWC 2011 website, as there is a plethora of slick scams from bogus overseas websites, and the real thing is exorbitant enough as it is.
For any hand-to-hand trading between fans, or if advertised on trademe.co.nz, call the RWC 2011 ticketing helpdesk to try attain verification on the ticket’s authenticity prior to any purchase. And don’t be a Rodney!
In motion
Unless necessary, try avoid hire cars or camper vans, especially those with sly “drop off” charges – what other industry charges you extra for returning the item you hired? Like Ireland, they take you for a ride. Independence is key: if here for more than a fortnight relive your student days and buy yourself a banger.
Trademe.co.nz should be your first port of call for most stuff and you’ll have no trouble picking up a reliable wreck for less than NZD$2,000 (€1,050), ensuring WOF (warrant of fitness) and registration are in order. Try travel in threes or fours and €1,050, along with the shared petrol, is more than reasonable. Getting responsibly rid of it at the other end is the only problem, but it can be achieved with a little forethought. If not, walk into a backpackers’ hostel and sell it within minutes for NZD$500 (€262).
For booking buses, trains or ferries go to nakedbus.com. If it’s a last minute affair, going directly to a bus or train station to purchase the ticket can offer huge savings, rather than tourist operators taking their lazy cut.
Domestic flights are most acceptable when either booking months in advance or on a “boarding-in-two-hours” deal (see airfaresflights.co.nz). If going to and from airports in ones or twos, use shuttle buses rather than taxis – for NZD$10–$20 (€5.25–€10.50) they will usually collect you or drop you off at your digs.
Bed and bach
Rule out the sharks from day one: book your accommodation far in advance and get written confirmation on the fixed and final price. It only takes one drunk to spoil the party.
From what I’ve experienced, guest houses, BBs, motels and hotels don’t really offer great value. What do you really get for NZD$120–$500-plus (€63–€262) per night? Crisp sheets and a kettle? And that’s standard rates – they could be doubled come September.
Especially if in larger groups, consider hiring a rural bach (pronounced “batch”, a Kiwi holiday cottage) on bookabach.co.nz or else collectively pay anywhere from NZD$200–$1,000 (€105–€524) a night for a Kiwi-home-for-hire closer to the action on gorugbyhomes.co.nz.
Hostels and campsites offer the best bang for your buck, within which you’ll find a pleasantly surprising array of comforts. Most hostels also have single and double rooms. For example, a double en suite bedroom for NZD$60–$80 (€31–€42) rather than a motel room for NZD$120–$150 (€63–€79) – check out bbh.co.nz.
Campsites will also offer a range of snug cabins from NZD$50 (€26) per night per cabin, and there is a pleasing selection of campsites in most city’s suburbs.
If you want to tent it then buy it on tradme.co.nz or else pick up a make-do model at The Warehouse or Mitre 10 – four-man tents start at NZD$126 (€66). But please don’t freedom camp – Kiwis are sick of the sight of waking to find yet another tourist defecating in their bushes. Play fair.
Grub and grog
Like anywhere, the larger supermarkets – particularly PAK’nSAVE – are most cost-effective, while the more personable stores are best for fruit and veg.
For lunch, the classic Kiwi bakery offers an ever-growing assortment of warm, nutritious and filling pies for about NZD$4 (€2).
If dining out, a little scouting goes a long way. Urban centres tender more than adequate Chinese restaurants, where a satisfying main with a drink comes in at around NZD$15 (€8). Remember, Kiwis don’t tip – but where exceptional service is demonstrated it is certainly appreciated.
In dollar-per-gulp terms, New Zealand pubs fall short. But you’re here for a rugby tournament, so get into it, not out of it. At regular times a pint of beer or glass of wine can cost NZD$7–$11 (€3.65–€5.75), but prices will likely surge come competition time (compared to, say, 24 bottles of Speight’s beer for NZD$35 (€18.30) at an off-license, or a widely respected wine label for around NZD$18 (€9.50) per bottle.
Don’t even sniff the Guinness here – you’ve a lengthy plane journey home with too few toilets. Go local instead and sample the goods – you may never be here again. Swallow the Guinness and you may never want to.
Jamie Ball first travelled to New Zealand to play club rugby in 1995. He lives and works in Christchurch (South Island) and is currently writing a book on his adopted land.
The RWC 2011 ticketing helpdesk is on 0800-7842911 (or 00-64-9-3672011 if phoning from overseas).
* doc.govt.nz
* rugbyworldcup.com
Ireland's matches where to . . .
IRELAND IS in Pool C of Rugby World Cup 2011 and will play four pool matches.
These are: Ireland–USA on September 11th at 6pm local time in Stadium Taranaki, New Plymouth, North Island; Ireland–Australia on September 17th at 8.30pm in Eden Park, Auckland, North Island; Ireland–Russia on September 25th at 6pm in Rotorua International Stadium, Rotorua, North Island; and Ireland–Italy on October 2nd at 8.30pm in Carisbrook, Dunedin, South Island.
New Plymouth
Stay
Sunflower Lodge, 33 Trimanda St. Tel: 00-64-6-7590050 or sunflowerlodge.co.nz. Clean and comfortable hostel.
Egmont Eco Lodge, 12 Clawton St. Tel: 00-64-6-7535720 or mttaranaki.co.nz. Modern hostel on large site.
New Plymouth Top 10 Holiday Park, 29 Princes St, Fitzroy. Tel: 00-64-6-7582566 or nptop10.co.nz. Modern campsite with motel.
Go
Mount Taranaki: if fit and prepared, climb this spectacular mountain which rises to 2,518m or hike any of its lower, safer circuits which can take 40 minutes or two days. For more information phone North Egmont Visitor Centre at 00-64-6-7560990 or see doc.govt.nz.
Puke Ariki Museum: this is an outstanding regional museum – do not miss. Open 9am to 5pm. Tel: 00-64-6-7596060 or see pukeariki.com.
Surfing: Taranaki is ground zero of Kiwi surfing. If not indulging, at least spend a day driving the Surf Highway, returning to New Plymouth via Stratford/Inglewood.
Auckland
Stay
Bamber House, 22 View Rd, Mt Eden. Tel: 00-64-9-6234267 or hostelbackpacker.com. Hostel in colonial house with large gardens.
City Garden Lodge, 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. Tel: 00-64-9-3020880 or see citygardenlodge.co.nz. Modern hostel in residential area on the fringes of central business district.
Takapuna Beach Holiday Park, 22 The Promenade, Takapuna. Tel: 00-64-9-4897909 or taka punabeach.kiwiholidayparks.com. Campsite with wide range of difference accommodation.
Go
Auckland Museum: arguably the finest museum in the country. Open 10am to 5p. Tel: 00-64-9-3090443 or see aucklandmuseum.com.
Waiheke Island: spend at least one full day out on this island which is a 35-minute ferry ride from the city. Cost: NZD$30 (€15.75) return. See waihekenz.com.
One Tree Hill: no self-respecting U2 fan (One Tree Hill is also a song on the band’s The Joshua Tree album) can fail to visit the dormant volcano that is One Tree Hill. It’s around 10km southeast of the city centre, commands regal views across the city and has some hearty, refreshing walks.
Rotorua
Stay
Regent Flashpackers, Pukaki St. Tel: 00-64-7-3483338 or regentflashpackers.co.nz. Modern hostel near Rotorua’s cafe and nightlife.
Waiteti Trout Stream Holiday Park (10 minutes out of town. Tel: 00-64-7-3575255 or seewaiteti.com. Holiday park with wide range of accommodation.
YHA Roturua, 1278 Haupapa St. Tel: 00-64-7-3494088 or see yha.co.nz. Modern, purpose-built hostel in the city centre.
Go
Buried Village of Te Wairoa: settlers’ village buried in a volcanic explosion in the 19th century and now an award-winning tourist attraction. Open from 9am to 5pm. Cost: NZD$31 (€16.30). Tel: 00-64-7-3628287 or buriedvillage.co.nz.
Polynesian Spa: natural thermal pools with a range of treatments. Entry from NZD$21.50 (€11.30) and open from 8am to 11pm. Tel: 00-64-7-3481328 or see polynesianspa.co.nz.
Hamurana Springs: deepest natural fresh water springs on the North Island of New Zealand. See doc.govt.nz.
Dunedin
Stay
Stafford Gables YHA, 71 Stafford St. See yha.co.nz or tel 00-64-3-4741919. Pretty hostel in period building.
Hogwartz, 277 Rattray St. Tel: 00-64-3-4741487 or hogwartz.co.nz. Hostel in historic bluestone building (bookings not accepted more than two months in advance).
Leith Valley Touring Park, 103 Malvern Street (about 3km from the city centre). Tel: 00-64-3-4679936 or see leithvalleytouringpark.co.nz.
Go
Dunedin Public Art Gallery: one of New Zealand’s finest art museums, showcasing the best of local, national and international art. Open 10am to 5pm. Tel: 00-64-3-4774000 or dunedin.art.museum.
Otago Museum: it has a collection of over two million artefacts and specimens from the fields of natural science and human history. Open 10am to 5pm. Tel: 00-64-3-4747474 or see otagomuseum.govt.nz.
Hire a bike: it costs NZD$40 (€21) a day (including helmet and repair kit) from Cycle Surgery at 67 Stuart St. Tel: 00-640-3-4777473 or see cyclesurgery.co.nz). Venture out to the gorgeous Otago Peninsula. See otago-peninsula.co.nz.
