Secret church of local legend

FOREST WOOD at Gradbach, in the English Peak District, is magical, with its gushing peat-hued river and brown leaf-mould floor, but in the midst of the trees is an opening in a rock face that promises even more magic.

Many think that Lud’s Church, a deep cleft in the millstone grit caused by a landslip, got its name from one of the Lollards, followers of the reformationist John Wycliff, who, in the late 14th and early 15th century, worshipped here in secret.

What is surprising, as you descend stone steps to its floor, 15m below ground, and spend much of the 400m walk through this chasm looking up to the framed sky above, is how much grows in the gloom: shade-loving wood-friendly vegetation such as ferns, moss, grass made brown by the lack of photosynthetic activity, and trees that grow horizontally out of vertical rock.

All of this verdant life in such a cave-like setting makes you think that strange things must happen here. Stories tell of how Bonnie Prince Charlie hid in Lud’s Church, as did Robin Hood. Friar Tuck came, too, giving sermons on the sandstone floor. Sir Gawain and the Green Knight also made legends here by fighting in the rift.

A local aristocrat, Lord Swythamley, out hunting, was almost swallowed as he rode over the cleft – his horse managed to jump over the sudden hole in the ground, which is six metres wide in parts.

Lud’s Church is a 20 minute walk down to a river and up through woods from the car park in Gradbach. Across the river head right, following a sign to Swythamley, until you reach a huge pile of rocks. Here a sign points you left to the chasm. Grid reference SJ 987656

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